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I would only use an R block, either R1 if you can find one, or R3. I think there is an R1 on here right now for sale in Tx maybe??
When I do a W5 head, I remove the original seats and replace them because they are prone to moving/falling out!
But I think you have good enough parts (minus the cam maybe) to do what you want, with a little more work.
R blocks are fine 
That said, i like the X blocks, reason being they are stock up top and will accept anybodies roller lifters, which is a plus,(in the 59 degree and roller cam world) and accesories, etc, are plenty beefy to handle anything a 59 degree head can dish out, and are lighter than an R3
Like any block, they should be sonic checked, mine has plenty of meat for another overbore and its currently at 4.100. Like any Mopar blocks, the thickness varies, hence why they all should be checked.I know guys running them at 4.125 even, and making good power with safe bore thickness.
Last edited by B3422W5; 10/09/09 02:06 PM.
69 Dart GTS A4 Silver All steel, flat factory hood, 3360race weight
418 BPE factory replacement headed stroker, 565 lift solid cam
Best so far, 10.40 @127 1/4
1.41 best 60 foot
6.60 at 103.90 1/8
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