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yea, but it's that whole "COUPLED WITH BYPASS" that gives you a "nice hot start"

why wouldn't the "permanent bypass" give you "continuously nice hot ignition"?



You're helping to prove my point. Back to a "stocker" example, the coil is ......

DESIGNED TO OPERATE on the SAME VOLTAGE whether cranking (10-11v)..... or running through the ballast.

This means that in theory, you should have the SAME HOT SPARK whether cranking / resistor bypassed, or running (charging) through the bypass

When bypassing the resistor, AND USING a coil designed for direct connection to 14v (not 12) you must now DROP that voltage clear down to 10-11V or so for CRANKING.

THAT IS a 28% change in voltage!!!


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and from reading literatre.......... like MSD, they have coils that are designed to operate on the full 12-14v system without needed the BR--I don't know if that's because they decided to sacrifice start up ability for driving performance (a coil meant for 12-14V that's only getting 7-9, won't fire as hot at start up).




Exactly my point of the "cold dark night" example. When everything is great, well, it's great. It's for those times when it's a little cold and humid, or you've flooded the engine, or the battery is a little low, etc etc, or maybe the engine is a little hot and balky. THAT is when you need that extra kick.

I SAY that unless you are running a CD/ MSD type ignition, that is, you are running points or switching electronic, you will have MUCH better overall start performance by using a system designed for and with a ballast.

I think some of you are confusing the use of a ballast with low performance. Remember the big huge Mallory rectangular coils? Those used TWO ballasts---the original OEM, and an additional one supplied by Mallory--in series. They certainly were not "low performance."