if the cars were warm and had been idling with the clutch pedal up, the above is a bit unusual. When cold with the 85-90 the fluid MAY be thick enough to stop the input and cluster gears from turning when the clutch is pushed in. But unusual when warm or with thinner fluids.

1. Easiest thing the check is how far from the floor does the clutch start to engage ? Should be about an inch or a Bit more. This measurement should be with the floormat in place.
If you have an inch or more of travel it would "indicate" the problem is other than adjustment but not confirm it as there are other things that could cause your problem.
2. The next easiest thing to check is the plate clearance when the pedal is fully depressed. If you have a stock bellhousing this is easily done by dropping the inspection cover and measuring the clearance with feeler guages. .060 as previously mentioned is more than adequate. Get a "Snug" drag on the gauges while measuring but not to where you have to force them in.
3. While doing so, mark the flywheel or PP cover, and the edge of the clutch disc.
4. Proceed to rotate the disc while checking the clearance in several areas( 8-12 or so),the should stay very close to the original reading. If it varies much it would indicate a bent clutch disc or input shaft.
5. The next step would be to measure the clearance again with the pedal fully depressed, incrementally rotate the engine (disconnect the coil wire if doing it using the starter) while holding the disc stationary. Check the clearance in several places. The clearance again should stay the same. If it does not it would indicate a misadjusted pressure plate or non flat flywheel surface.

if you do not have a stock Bellhousing with the inspection cover the above can be done through the clutch fork opening but it is much more difficult.
IF you follow these steps which sound more complicated and time consuming than they are It will be a strong indicator of where the problem is. Report back with your findings

or sell me the car for say 5K ? LOL