I believe I am getting a grasp of your recommendations which is to cut more 1/2" joints across the drive where the movement is most noticeable and reseal. This I'm guessing will reduce both the expansion & contraction as the slabs are now smaller, Correct?
The two I don't grasp is "The transverse cleats could be placed where the e'j locations are
Yes, more transverse joints with sealant.
Regarding the cleats, that would be the transverse "curbs" if you will.
Do the transverse cuts and seal first (make sure cuts go completely through the slab and all loose material removed - compressed air works good), install foam and seal it up.
If months or years later you see the slab continue to walk the transverse cleats (reinforced concrete concrete curbs) can be installed using the previously cut exp joint as one side of the 8" to 12" wide trench.
Further up described as at least as wide as the drive, and 24" to 30" deep. The upper left grid like sketch is looking at the face of the cleat. All it's purpose is to keep the slab from continuing a down hill walk.
Think of expansion and contraction of the drive slab as a caterpillar going down-hill. Each summer it attempts to hump up, and in the winter it pulls it self down hill.The cleat is just there to keep it pushing against 20, or 25 square feet of dirt resisting it. It's easy to push over a fence post sunk 4" or 6" yet if that post is 24,'" or 30" deep it will be very difficult. Think of it as a bulldozer skimming off the top soil, vs making a big deep cut.
I can imagine if the cleats were installed one would notice the e.j. on the up hill side be narrower, and downhill wider after a few seasonal cycles.
Additionally, this is getting into the real nuts and bolts. Every time a car goes up hill the tires push the slab downhill, and conversely going down hill braking has the same effect. A famous physicist once said for every action there is .....
