Shock to the drivetrain is what usually break parts, spinning and then dead hooking is bad tsk down Your way better off dead hooking the car to start with than spinning and hooking and spinning some more tsk
The converter will play a big part in getting the drive train to last, buy a really good one to start with, don't take any chances on them tsk
On the U joints if yours has grease fitting in them they may break once you make the car hook hard, quicker than .50 or faster in the 60 ft. Solid H.D U joints like Neapco severe duty are needed in a half way serious drag car (faster than 12.00 flat at your car weight)
Cam, carb. and intake choice will make the motor perform good or better work
On your deal I would go with a set of Eddy RPM heads and a Eddy Performer RPM with a cam that works well between 2400 to 6000 RPM and plan on shifting at or a little above 6000 RPM, this combination in a 440 with a 4.250 stroke with 10.5 to 1 or near that will run excellent on 91 octane pump swill and make over 550 HP with similar torque work up scope
Keep in mind that I am a old time racer that hasn't gone fast enough to make me not want to go faster realcrazy
My last pump gas street and strip Duster ran 9.999 at 134.+ MPH with the full exhaust on with the air cleaner with a 518 C.I. low deck 400 stroker motor with a set of Indy SR max wedge heads and single 1050 Holley Domintor up
That car weighed 3450 Lbs. with me in it and it was blast to drive and race boogie

Last edited by Cab_Burge; 12/30/18 03:24 PM.

Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)