I meant camber. If I can get -4 I can set it where I need it. -3 sounds like a good starting point with 0 toe. It may need about 1/8 toe out but we will see how the car is works. My Porsche I can only get -1.2 front and I have -1.8 in the back with 0 toe. I would love -3 on it but I can't run camber plates in Street class so that is all I can get from the adjustment.
This should be interesting.
Yes caster needs to be fixed on Mopars I'm not used to that as you leave Porsche at stock settings. Yes -3 camber is a ton and I wouldn't run over -1.5 on the street but this is a class car and very limited street use. Now lets see about large fronts and large amounts of negative camber. ASP and SSP Porsches with 285 18 fronts running -3 to -3.5 with Hoosers. Mike won the Dixie tour in his Fox body with 275 18 f and 335 18 Rival S with over -3 camber. I may only run -2 or -2.5 and the car maybe happy there but I will be going for the year end trophy. So I need to see how close I can get to 1.5g but I need to hit at least 1.3g. And that is a ton in a B body. I want the adjustment in case it's needed. I do run the complete season plus at least 1 champ Tour. Hey it's all good.
The Porsche you refer to is a strut IFS, ie little camber gain design, liking more initial negative camber, unlike a Mopar unequal arm IFS?
