I would think that the OE ones would be pretty much the same for phasing. If a person ain't using vac adv you can install/pump up the can till the phasing is dead on then drill straight down at that point thru both plates then lock em in that clocking with a thin grade 8 bolt/nut with a spacer inbetween the plates to keep em parallel when you tighten down the nut. In operation only the vac adv can changes phasing. You can redrill the reluctor and Eberg sells the redrilled reluctors that I believe Andy used to sell. I ain't done it yet but I think a person could make another notch on the other side of the dist shaft with the OE notch that the rotor currently fits into, just offset the new one (measure thrice) clocked correctly and I wondering if a person could file the present OE notch sideways in the direction that it needs to go then JBweld the other horizontle wall back to get the notch width back its original dimention. The shaft is stout & I dont think a second notch would compromise its integrity. Generally you want the rotor to swing equidistant on either side of the centerline of the cap terminal & reducing the rotor tip to cap terminal radial clearance to .015" helps phasing as its the total distance (circumferential+radial) that if it is too great it will misfire expecially under load when the required voltage is the greatest. NAPA has an Echlin brand rotor (MO3000) for $8 & change out the door that has a .060" longer metal blade but you can easily fab your own & get the clearance exactly where you want it (the .015" for your exact dist tolerances (clearances).