i disagree with one thing moper, the lifter bodies are oiled by the main oil galley their setting in, thats why i'm afraid of shutting the oil off. dont want a stuck lifter. another thing i was thinking of is when people tube the right galley, they drill a small hole in the tube at each lifter for oil. if i plug the left galley i'm shutting off all the oil to that lifter bank.
The ONLY thing that oil does is feed the hydraulic part of the lifter. If you are using FT solid lifters or solid roller lifters they lube from splash.
Again, that crossover tube doesn't do anything.
The Chrysler oiling system was the same from 61-62 (somewhere around there I'd have to look it up for sure but the Poly's are virtually the same)onward and was the same until the las LA's were produced. The biggest sin is the oil timing to the crank is WRONG and it oils the lifters FIRST. The latter is relatively simple to fix, the former not nearly so much.
So 99% of what is done on the PRESSURE side of the pump is USELESS. Make your inlet as big as possible, Block ALL moil to the lifter bodies if you are NOT using hydraulic lifters and keep hot idle oil pressure at no less the 40 psi at idle. Always use full groove mains to keep oil going to the rods all the time.
If you want to discuss small block wet sump oiling is a 600 hp plus engine at 8000 rpm plus, well that a whole 'nuther cat, and very few dudes actually do it.
As for oil viscosity...way over blown. There is very little to be had for 99% of the guys who ain't running Comp or Pro Stock. The engine builder SHOULD set clearances accordingly. FWIW on a typical Chrylser small block I run .002 on the rods and .0022-.0024 on the mains. That's with a 30 or 40 grade oil. If you go to a lighter grade oil, then they get a bit tighter. If you think you want to zip it up past 7500 rpm, I add a couple of tenths to it but's that's about as loose as it gets.
