I just switched over to the string method too. I set a pair of jackstands in front of the car and wrap string around the rear of the car on the rear tires, and set the jackstands in front of the car. I adjust the stands so the string is ever so lightly touching the front sidewall of the rear tires. The string runs parallel to the car terminating at the jackstands positioned at the front of the car.

Make sure the ride height is where you want it and equal on each side. I measure from the front well well opening to the ground.

Then I adjust the upper control arm's rear eccentric all the way in and use the front eccentric to get the front tire plumb using a small bubble level on the rim (camber). Some people like to tilt the top of the wheel in ever so slightly, which makes it handle a bit better in corners. I adjust mine so the bubble ever so slightly is off level to allow for a very slight amount of negative camber.

Once your string is in position(watch Youtube for a video of the string method), I measure the tow by taking two measurements using a ruler from the string to the sidewall of the front and rear of the front tire. I shoot for 1/16" toe in.

Make sure you center your steering wheel first and tie it off with a rope. I wrap it around the wheel and hold it with my vent window.

If you don't have two greased plates under the front tires, you will have to roll the car back and forth after you start making changes in the eccentrics or toe settings to allow the front end to settle. It is time consuming, but my cars have never driven as well as they do now after "professional" alignments.