Ok, your making this a LOT harder than it needs to be. You recieved some very good advice early on from Greg in this post.I have built quite a few engines over almost 30 years, and I can tell you I never needed Right Stuff, or any other miracle sealers to get the job done. Here is my opinion and comments:

1) Stop looking for the miracle RTV
2) Make SURE...SURE..SURE...all gasket surfaces are oil and silicone free, and as clean as you can get them, Use lacquer thinner to clean the surfaces.
3) Using High tack on each gasket, JUST to adhere it to the windage tray is fine. High Tack does SOME sealing, but it really is only there to make the installation easier, IE: make the gaskets hold in place till you can install them.
4) The Milodon crush proof gaskets, are not all they are cracked up to be. As Greg already mentioned, their material isnt optimum in this application, The wicking and loosening WILL happen. Using locktite on the bolts really doesnt help a thing with that. With a good gasket and proper installation, I have never seeen a rash of oil pan bolts falling out.
5) RTV. usually creates as many issues as it solves. Most people WAY over use it, and things get even worse. It has its place here and there, but most applications just dont need it. Its a " feel good" product many times. Keep in mind, a gasket is there to do what? Yep, thats right, seal things up. Then why do we need all of this silicone? Let the gasket do its job, which is to seal the surfaces.Flat surfaces are the key to sealing anything up. If the surfaces are dirty, uneven, have debris on them, dont mate up right, then you need to fix that first.
6) You dont want to wait to get good gaskets, but also dont want to ever touch this pan again? I'd suggest maybe re-thinking that.
7) Make sure the area by the rear main seal reatiner is good anf flat. Sometimes the retainer can be a little pronounced there, and cause an issue. Also, if this engine has ever had main studs installed, quite often the interfere witht he rear portion of the oil pan, and it will never seal. The front timing cover is also an area of suspect. The timing cover may not be as flush to the block as the pan is. In that case, you MAY need a touch of sealer there, but just a dab is all, put too much on and you create another problem.
8) The windage tray needs to be perfectly clean and flat. If its not, that will be a problem. The High Tack does work good for that area.
9) If you and others, have been torquing the hell out of this oil pan to try and stop leaks for a long time, then you have probably stretched the oil bolt holes and they are no longer flush. Use a large brass drif, witht he oil pan on a flat surface and get all the holes flat again, and DO NOT overtighten the pan.


My guess is, a few of the recent installs simply werent done correctly. As I said, I have done a lot of BBM's, and we actually have a very easy oil pan to seal up. IF you pay attention to all these things. If you are having another problem like crankcase ventilation etc, then nothing will work , short of gluing and welding it...so that would need to be addressed seperatly.


Take your time, dont be in a hurry, do it right the first time, and dont go buying stock in Permatex anytime soon, you simply dont need all this RTV if everything elses is right. Let the gasket do its job, which is to seal things, and I would suggest using a different gasket as well. Good luck