Quote:

Go buy two small tubes or one large tube of Silicone marked as "adhesive sealant," not the other gasket maker kind Use it sparingly, not a bunch, between the block and the first gasket after you use it to seal the two oil pan gaskest onto the windage tray first and then between the bottom gasket and the oil pan at the same time as you put it on the block Follow the directions on the tube to the letter, it will insure a weep free seal IHTHs


Yes... After 6...that's SIX pan gasket changes, I've had to learn the
hard way. Turns out the root cause was my pvc was plugged into the front of the Eddy afb instead of the rear vacuum port & was causing too much crankcase pressure & blowing the pan gasket seal. SO, after TWO Jeg's composite windage tray/gaskets, one installed with Right Stuff (NEVER again...took 4 solid hours to remove it), and the Moroso
crush proof (EXPENSIVE) gaskets w/ the factory tray, I called Permatex & he reiterated what Cab says. Use a sealant on rubber gaskets & not
RTV. I did use RTV on the edges of the front timing cover junction & where the rear main seal holder meets the block. Anyway, the gist of my long winded post is, use sealant with the Moroso gaskets & DON"T overtighten. My pan rail was gouged due when removing The "Right"Stuff
so I don't think you'll have an issue with just a very thin coat of sealant. Best of luck & hope it goes well.