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SO WHAT IS THE ENGINE ID NUMBER? Yes, I'm yelling. "Steve" didn't build the engine, I do not conclude that he knows exactly what it is. So get the freakin' number!

THE TORQUE CONVERTER YOU SHOWED US IS FOR AN INTERNALLY BALANCED ENGINE!
Again, yes, I'm yelling. You don't seem to be paying a lot of attention to what people are saying.

The engine ID number will confirm that it's a mid-70's 360 or whatever it is.

If that's the case it needs the harmonic damper/balancer from a 360 (not 5.9 Mag) hanging off the front of the engine, and an externally balanced torque converter assembly hanging off the back.

The converter assembly can either be a neutral balanced converter with an unbalanced flexplate, or an externally balanced converter with neutral flexplate.

R.



I'm very sorry, the car is not at my house and then I had a hard time to get to see the numbers, but with a camera and my wifes make up mirror I think the freaking number is: 3418496-7-360

I also took a closer look a my damper and I am convinced it is an unbalanced one I have, and it has not been replaced since Steve had the engine.

I repeat; it vibrated badly with the two heavy weights on either side of the drain plug (TC from a 75-76 Volare). I took the weights off and it got better, but it still vibrates. You can notice it when it idles if you pay attention, then, of course, it gets worse at higher revs.
Engine is pretty weak below 2,000 so I will need a higher stall converter but I had this one and wanted to get to drive the engine so I could find out what it's like before I order a new TC for my tranny 906 to 518 swap. And yes, in neutral and park also.

It has a RPM intake, a vacuum Holley and MSD 6AL and MSD distributor that's the only things I can tell.





How well do you know this STEVE ??? If it's a cast crank 360 then it should have a weighted balancer unless as was said above someone spent a lot of money to have it neutral balanced .

Since putting a neutral convertor on it didn't make it stop vibrating , even though it was less that it did wit hthe weighted convertor , you need to 2 one of 2 things ...

1 put a 360 balancer on it

OR

2 , pull the pan and look at the crank to see if it has mallory added , it will be very obvious . Other wise you risk damaging the engine by running it ...




I know Steve much enough to believe what he says when he states that he drove his Challenger 2 years without vibrations. I will get to see the flywheel he used myself this weekend so I can check if is unbalanced or not.

So if the flywheel is for an internally balanced crank and since the balancer also seems to be for an internally balanced crank the conclusion must be that my crank is internally balanced, right? The only way to find out is to drop the pan and look but I don't have the time to do it now. When winter comes and I put it on my lift to do the tranny swap it will be easier to lift the engine and drop the pan, but I rather don't mess with it. Is there no other way to find out? Well maybe I could put the flywheel on and start it...

So, what do the ID number tell us?


70 W100 Power Wagon. 318 4-spd
70 Sport Fury 440 2dr HT
71 Duster 340
71 Charger Super Bee - 383/727
72 Charger "Sabotage" - 440/727 - Street/Strip
78 Warlock in beautiful patina