First of all let's put something to rest.
"I was told nothing I can do and that the reason the TQ didnt do it was the plastic bowls but that they are dangerous and can crack and spray gas all over."
The three most dangerous words on this board are either "I was told" or "I have heard".
Now on to the phenolic bowls. They have been known to warp, but the idea that they should be avoided because they'll crack and spray fuel everywhere is just rubbish.
Now on to ethanol in the gas. Thank you to JohnRR for pointing out that it's almost impossible to buy gas without ethanol in it. It's a federal requirement for areas that cover about 90% of the US population. Also, fuel manufacturers change the evaporation rate "Reid vapor pressure" for summer or winter. So, for example, if your motor home has a load of winter gas in it, it will evaporate faster in the summer and give you more problems. On the other hand, a load of summer gas can mean a very hard-starting car in the winter. Fuel has to be in vapor form in order to light off.

So maybe the easiest thing to do would be to rebuild the Thermoquazd one more time.

Your idea of a bilge blower is NOT a bad idea.

An Edelbrock wood spacer would help. Heck, two would help more, and look at heat shields to block off radiant heat between engine and carb.

Blocking off the heat riser under your stock manifold would help.

As far as heat conductivity goes, aluminum conducts best. Then the Holley zinc body, then cast iron, then insulators like wood or plastic. So replacing your cast iron manifold with an aluminum one would increase the heat conducted to your carb.

Check out the new Barry Grant Street Demon with the "space age plastic" bowl. According to a race shop board member, this carb is tremendous. Maybe that's an option, too .

R.