Quote: I'd be curious to know what machine the average automotive machine shop would use to end-mill a block. Likewise, I'd like to know what the fixture to hold it looks like since you'd want to register off the main bores.
With all this talk about the block not being square (which I find hard to believe), why hasn't anybody suggested checking it ?!?! It can be done very easily with the dial indicator and magnetic base using a slightly longer arm to get the indicator out to that block surface. This is a hell of a lot less hassle and way cheaper than having sh!t machined on a whim!
Another Rottler user here. On the F-68A it's a simple operation and they index off the cranks and cam centerlines for parallel to the crank, and have the perfectly-perpendicular-to-base 1.5" thick end plate. Errors in timing cover and bellhousing machinging are just as common as deck height, mains, and lifter bore issues. A good shop (nevermind a great shop) will have equipment that can do this easily. IMO an "average" shop should be avoided unless you have better than "average" luck.
Just had this done in a Rottler 69 , block was originally done in a CNC , I assume Rottler ??? the bellhousing surface was off .012 on my 69 383 HP block.
Guess I could have just used a soda can to fix that
