Quote: IMO, you can get away without an external oil cooler. You still might want to monitor it ( oil temp gauge ). A quality full synthetic oil would be a must. I run a 408 that is about 3/4 filled. No H20 temp problems and oil hasn't gotten over 215 after about 3/4 hour driving around town. The rest of you set up could make a difference though. My oil supplier said that oil temps in the 250 range is not a problem.
I was hoping you would chime in as I did some searching here before posting and saw your posts about your machinist adding some filler to you stroker block but you had not ran it yet to see if it would overheat.
You mentioned in your other posts quality synthetic oil...What brand oil are you using if you don't mind me asking? As for maximum or dangerous oil temps, is 250 kinda the standard there?
I would definitely invest in a temp gauge at the very least (assuming sending unit in the bottom of the pan, or is there a more accurate location to read from?), but if this will require an external oil cooler im not sure its something I would want to do.
Hopefully some others who may have street driven with filled blocks can offer some input as well
Drilled and taped my drain plug for the oil temp sender. My block is filled well above the freeze plugs. I run Royal Purple 10W40 race oil. Most people don't run oil temps high enough. You want something over 212 just to boil the H20 out of it. I run 4.56 gears, but it's not a street car. Yes, the temp goes up after a pass, but I have a hard time getting the temp up to 170 in staging, so I leave, actually, too cold.
