You could achieve the same effect with a solenoid controlled pre-oiler, which would not waste power for the rest of its installed life.

Any pump requires power to operate.

Power comes from the distributor gear in most cases. Using a high volume/high pressure pump, one should always use a better-than-stock oil pump drive.

The power to drive the pump is directly proportional to the volume of oil being pumped if pressure is held constant, it is also directly proportional to pressure if volume is held constant.

If one uses a high volume pump, let's say 20% larger, power required to turn the pump and not the rear wheels goes up 20%. The same applies to pressure.

If one increases the volume by 20% and the pressure by 20%, power requirement increases by 44%.

Oil that is pumped up to high pressure stores energy that is released when it is depressurized. So, if you are running at the pressure relief valve setting, that means the relief valve is open. Bypassing some oil directly back into the sump or somewhere causes the oil in the sump to get warmer. The extra energy in the bypassed oil turns into heat which causes sump temperatures to rise.

Notice that modern racers are using oil only slightly thicker than water and running way below the "10psi per 1000 rpm" rule of thumb. They are looking for those last three horsepower. If you are driving on the street or bracket racing it may be worth more to you to waste a little energy and keep everything drenched in oil.

But if you read and understand this, you will be doing it with your eyes open.

End of lecture.

R.