Just got a Tuff stuff 7509RFSP, which is the black 100A 3wire single pulley alternator with a regulator on the back of it???
anyone know how to wire this? is it only the one wire to the battery??

car is a 69 charger with a current 3-wire alt and 70+ style regulator...

help i want to go out for a drive!!!

you mean that called "one wire" with a mounted on housing regulator ?

just need the black thick wire to the stud. I guess the attached regulator came out already wired

yes the regulator is on the back of it, but it looks like a regular 3-wire late alternator....

So i put it on, and it charges but i'm still having a problem with charging....at idle in P, it's charging, but after driving for a while it goes down to 12 or so volts at idle ...then 11...then 10...and stays around 10V at idle, but charges when i start driving...this is with the headlights, stereo, electric fan...ect....
i have no idea of what to check....i have bypassed the amp meter, ran an extra wire from alt to bat, and from alt to amp connections (bulkhead bypass)....ect....
I've pulled the battery from my truck (daily driver, batt good) and same thing since i thought it was the battery.
my old alternator did the same thing, using the late 70+ regulator, and this tuff stuff is the same problem although it doesn't go as low as the old alt....

I'm totally out of things to try....this is driving me NUTS!!!

I just had this happen to my 1 wire tuff stuff 100 amp chrome alt. They said that they had problems with the vendor that made the regulators and they went bad quick. Mine had less than 1,000 miles on it when it went bad. They charged me $75 I think to rebuild it that included the shipping back to me. I still had to pay to ship it to them. It works great now but now I have about $250 wrapped up in an alternator.

If it is a three wire alt, what did you hook the other two wires to? The one wire is a sensor wire that needs to be hooked in to the system to allow the regulator to sense the charging voltage. The other wire needs to be connected to switched power through the ignition switch to excite the alt
Lots of info is here. http://www.madelectrical.com/index.shtml

this is the alternator i ordered:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFF-7509RFSP/

and i got this regulator on the back of it for some reason:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFF-7530B/?rtype=10

So I'm guessing on the back it's all hooked up, the regulator has wires to all alt field wires, and to the batt stud so it's sensing voltage off the power wire is my guess....
i don't know why i have the alternator with built in regulator, when i ordered the one without...

so i tried it out, it is the same problem as my old alt, just low charge at idle....
i've been thru the mad electrical site years ago, which made me bypass the bulkhead, disconnect and bypass the amp meter, and ran an extra 10Ga wire from alt to bat and splice under the dash (main distribution splice under dash). I just can't seem to find a problem anywhere, and for the life of me even this tuff stuff alternator i waited 2 MONTHS to get (horrible service and run-around from tuff stuff) 100AMP alt DOES NOT CHARGE AT IDLE!!!! what a waste of money....and to top it all off, i went to test it out and came back with a nice high-pitched squeal from the NEW alternator----->JUNK!!!

yeap, that regulator gets several wires... red to feed positive field AND regulator itself, green to feed negative field AS ANY REGULAR 70s REGULATOR, AND BLUE TO BE TURNED ON by the stator power sense when spining. Black the regulator ground to be able to feed the negative field once regulated

Is not more than an "itself turn on regulator" ( dunno if that the correct way to describe it ) with stator signal instead key, plus being mounted on alt, saving wires all along the harness

BAD SERVICE FROM TUFF STUFF ? I thought I was wrong when I requested some specs from their alternators and never got the answer I wanted from the TS crew... so it looks I wasn't wrong on their service ?

a 100 amps alt should be able to feed 50 amps at iddle with my maths if we think a 78 amps STOCK replacement alt is able to feed 40-45 amps idiling engine at 800 RPMs. If not, something is wrong.

these alts with Y windings are known as unneficient alternators, opposite to the Delco ones with Delta kind windings. These 100 amps alts on stock look are only worthly to ppl like me who cares about the "stock look" being the most efficient as posible on that design, but still not the most efficient

My bad when you said three wire alt with regulator on the back I assumed you had a Delco style three wire. The MOPAR style alts are bad for low voltage at idle. Sorry, I’m not sure what you can do to fix it. My 86 RAM truck drops to 11 volts at idle but shows 13.5 volts as soon as I bring the RPM up. If I have both the heater and head lights on it drops to 10 volts. That is why I always run three wire Delco alternators on my race cars.

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BAD SERVICE FROM TUFF STUFF ? I thought I was wrong when I requested some specs from their alternators and never got the answer I wanted from the TS crew... so it looks I wasn't wrong on their service ?

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THE WORST....i got the run around for 2 MONTHS to get this JUNK alternator, and when i complained to them, they sent it within a week...then told me they will send me a gift for my trouble....so i got 2 hats by ups....needless to say i did'nt use toilet paper that day...

and to top it all off, it squeals like a pig....and it's brand new...JUNK JUNK JUNK JUNK JUNK JUNK