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Anyone here try a Watts linkage on rear end? #993271
05/15/11 10:26 PM
05/15/11 10:26 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 7,538
Albany, NY
67SATisfaction Offline OP
The member whose name is actually Art
67SATisfaction  Offline OP
The member whose name is actually Art

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 7,538
Albany, NY
Has anyone here added a Watts linkage to your rear end for tighter handling?

It seems fairly easy to weld a pivot to the diff housing and attach the ends to the rear subframe.

Just curious about the outcome, good/bad. Is it an improvement worth applying to a mild resto-mod highway cruiser?

-Art


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Re: Anyone here try a Watts linkage on rear end? [Re: 67SATisfaction] #993272
05/15/11 11:30 PM
05/15/11 11:30 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,387
Pikes Peak Country
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TC@HP2 Offline
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Quote:

Has anyone here added a Watts linkage to your rear end for tighter handling?

It seems fairly easy to weld a pivot to the diff housing and attach the ends to the rear subframe.

Just curious about the outcome, good/bad. Is it an improvement worth applying to a mild resto-mod highway cruiser?

-Art




It's a bit more involved than simply welding on brackets as you need to calculate roll center locations and arm arc movements, or figure adjustable points in to those locations to enable change.

IMO, it's a bit more work than necessary for just a cruiser and short of a race application where the adjustability is needed for tuning, overkill for the street. Improved leafs and shocks will yield greater results for the dollars spent, fab involved, and results you get for a street car.

Re: Anyone here try a Watts linkage on rear end? [Re: TC@HP2] #993273
05/16/11 12:05 AM
05/16/11 12:05 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,465
So Cal
autoxcuda Offline
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Posts: 27,465
So Cal
Quote:

Quote:

Has anyone here added a Watts linkage to your rear end for tighter handling?

It seems fairly easy to weld a pivot to the diff housing and attach the ends to the rear subframe.

Just curious about the outcome, good/bad. Is it an improvement worth applying to a mild resto-mod highway cruiser?

-Art




It's a bit more involved than simply welding on brackets as you need to calculate roll center locations and arm arc movements, or figure adjustable points in to those locations to enable change.

IMO, it's a bit more work than necessary for just a cruiser and short of a race application where the adjustability is needed for tuning, overkill for the street. Improved leafs and shocks will yield greater results for the dollars spent, fab involved, and results you get for a street car.




I agree. Overkill and something with little or no gain in regular street driving. And I really bet it would translate more road noise and vibration into the car.

BUT you can see my rear end moving about 1/2" or so sideways in this video. We're doing about 60-90 mph sliding around some of those curves.

http://www.youtube.com/watch_popup?v=vTT--mGlpTY&vq=large

Not to say if running a Watts Link would 110% eliminate movement. Things move. Heck the whole chassis flexes.

Last edited by autoxcuda; 05/16/11 12:07 AM.
Re: Anyone here try a Watts linkage on rear end? [Re: autoxcuda] #993274
05/16/11 12:56 PM
05/16/11 12:56 PM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 22,696
Bitopia
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jcc Offline
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Quote:

I agree. Overkill and something with little or no gain in regular street driving. And I really bet it would translate more road noise and vibration into the car.





I agree and disagree. Not sure why NVH would matter anyway if a watts was considered in the first place. Seems like a simple panhard bar with its limitations would be a decent compromise if the OP was looking for some small improvement, or need to weld something on his rear end.


Reality check, that half the population is smarter then 50% of the people and it's a constantly contested fact.
Re: Anyone here try a Watts linkage on rear end? [Re: autoxcuda] #993275
05/16/11 01:40 PM
05/16/11 01:40 PM
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St. John's Newfoundland
440newport Offline
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Quote:



I agree. Overkill and something with little or no gain in regular street driving. And I really bet it would translate more road noise and vibration into the car.

BUT you can see my rear end moving about 1/2" or so sideways in this video. We're doing about 60-90 mph sliding around some of those curves.

http://www.youtube.com/watch_popup?v=vTT--mGlpTY&vq=large

Not to say if running a Watts Link would 110% eliminate movement. Things move. Heck the whole chassis flexes.




What about adding a panhard bar? I don't think they're commmon in leaf spring applications but I know certain year Imperials used them.

Re: Anyone here try a Watts linkage on rear end? [Re: 67SATisfaction] #993276
05/16/11 02:14 PM
05/16/11 02:14 PM
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 64
Iowa
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GreenBird Offline
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Iowa
I have added watts links setups to two modern Mustangs, a 2006 and a 2009, to replace the stock panhard bars. IMO, it made a tremendous difference in handling, about as close as you can get to feeling like independent rear suspension with a solid rear axle. I have no idea how they would work with an older Mopar.

Also, the setups I installed were kits engineered specifically for those Mustangs. It probably would take a lot of auto engineering knowledge (at least at lot more than I have) to design a setup from scratch.

Re: Anyone here try a Watts linkage on rear end? [Re: 67SATisfaction] #993277
05/16/11 06:22 PM
05/16/11 06:22 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,387
Pikes Peak Country
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TC@HP2 Offline
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Yes, a prperly designed, seet up, and installed watts is superior to a panhard. However, it takes a fair amount of calculation to ensure that.

A panhard would be an easier install and achieve similar lateral location duties and could, potentially, allow the same adjustment. Either one would require modifications to the spring eye mounting and shackle bushings to allow the springs to pivot otherwise there is high potential for binding as the leafs and lateral device fight for control of the springs. Since the torsional rigidity of the springs resist roll, creating pivoting springs means they may also need to step up in rate slightly to achieve the same roll rate.

I still think for OP's request for slightly firmer handling on a street car, it is easier acheived with in increase in spring rates, better shocks, maybe even a rear sway bar if the roll couple isn't hugely off.

Re: Anyone here try a Watts linkage on rear end? [Re: 67SATisfaction] #993278
05/16/11 06:50 PM
05/16/11 06:50 PM
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 434
DELAWARE
bee71mopar Offline
mopar
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You could grab a rear out of a 04-08 Durango to start ..One good example.

Re: Anyone here try a Watts linkage on rear end? [Re: 67SATisfaction] #993279
05/16/11 08:08 PM
05/16/11 08:08 PM
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,249
Las Vegas
JeffC Offline
pro stock
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Posts: 1,249
Las Vegas
There's not much point in using one with leafsprings. If your gonna design a custom 3-link with coilovers or something like that then the watts link would make more sense.

Last edited by JeffC; 05/16/11 08:10 PM.
Re: Anyone here try a Watts linkage on rear end? [Re: TC@HP2] #993280
05/17/11 01:41 PM
05/17/11 01:41 PM
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,785
Utah and Alaska
astjp2 Offline
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Utah and Alaska
Jeep Wagoneers (full size) and Wranglers used pan hard bars (trak bars) with leaf springs in the 80's and 90's, They were mounted with solid mounts on the axles. If you remove them for rock crawling the body sway is greater. The stock rubber spring bushings provided enough give to have a fairly smooth and stable ride. Tim

Quote:

Yes, a prperly designed, seet up, and installed watts is superior to a panhard. However, it takes a fair amount of calculation to ensure that.

A panhard would be an easier install and achieve similar lateral location duties and could, potentially, allow the same adjustment. Either one would require modifications to the spring eye mounting and shackle bushings to allow the springs to pivot otherwise there is high potential for binding as the leafs and lateral device fight for control of the springs. Since the torsional rigidity of the springs resist roll, creating pivoting springs means they may also need to step up in rate slightly to achieve the same roll rate.

I still think for OP's request for slightly firmer handling on a street car, it is easier acheived with in increase in spring rates, better shocks, maybe even a rear sway bar if the roll couple isn't hugely off.




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Re: Anyone here try a Watts linkage on rear end? [Re: 67SATisfaction] #993281
05/17/11 05:03 PM
05/17/11 05:03 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,750
Rio Linda, CA
John_Kunkel Offline
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Evidently Ford uses this on one of their models.

6637989-WattsonFord.jpg (81 downloads)
Re: Anyone here try a Watts linkage on rear end? [Re: John_Kunkel] #993282
05/17/11 05:06 PM
05/17/11 05:06 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,750
Rio Linda, CA
John_Kunkel Offline
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Graphic

Re: Anyone here try a Watts linkage on rear end? [Re: John_Kunkel] #993283
05/17/11 05:46 PM
05/17/11 05:46 PM
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,785
Utah and Alaska
astjp2 Offline
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What happens if you extend L1 and L3 by 5-10%? Tim


Quote:

Graphic



Re: Anyone here try a Watts linkage on rear end? [Re: astjp2] #993284
05/17/11 08:55 PM
05/17/11 08:55 PM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 22,696
Bitopia
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jcc Offline
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Quote:

What happens if you extend L1 and L3 by 5-10%? Tim


Quote:

Graphic







Good eye

And with on highway use the rarity of being concerned about axle to frame shift when going to full compression/rebound is likely so rare and extreme, to never be a concern. But as pointed out, longer links resolves the issue.


Reality check, that half the population is smarter then 50% of the people and it's a constantly contested fact.
Re: Anyone here try a Watts linkage on rear end? [Re: astjp2] #993285
05/18/11 09:46 PM
05/18/11 09:46 PM
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 14,889
up yours
Supercuda Offline
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Quote:

What happens if you extend L1 and L3 by 5-10%? Tim







Best way to do that is to mount the ends of L1 and L3 on the axle, not the frame. Then the center pivot is mounted to the frame.

I put a watts linkage on my 96 Stang, because the stock 4 link was junk, even with poly bushings it wiggled horrible.


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They say there is always the exception that proves the rule.
Don't be the exception.






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