Upgrading the fuseblock
#990817
05/12/11 03:56 AM
05/12/11 03:56 AM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,910
Athens, Greece
Pyper70
OP
master
|
OP
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,910
Athens, Greece
|
I have the original in my 69...although we have redone the harness...I have alot hanging off my keyed 12v accessory fuse itself...probably 10 wires piggy backed. One of them being my MSD trigger...if the fusebox shifts (its not screwed on to the dash)the car shuts off. I wanna attach one wire to the accessory fuse and then have that go to an entirely different grid with ATO style fuses. Probably screwed on to the heater box. Does anyone foresee a problem with that?
Family owned 1969 Charger R/T DualQuad 440/727/GVO/3.55s
|
|
|
Re: Upgrading the fuseblock
[Re: Pyper70]
#990818
05/12/11 07:09 AM
05/12/11 07:09 AM
|
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,287
West Coast, USA
jbc426
master
|
master
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,287
West Coast, USA
|
The stock accessory feed is pretty low amperage. How many amps are you planning on drawing with all your accesories on on the second fuse block turned on?
You should use a larger wire with a more direct 12 volt source. You can always use a relay if you want the devices to be triggered by your key when switched on.
1970 Plymouth 'Cuda #'s 440-6(block in storage)currently 493" 6 pack, Shaker, 5 speed Passon, 4.10's
1968 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible 408 Magnum EFI with 4 speed automatic overdrive, 3800 stall lock-up converter and 4.30's (closest thing to an automatic 5 speed going)
|
|
|
Re: Upgrading the fuseblock
[Re: jbc426]
#990819
05/12/11 07:39 AM
05/12/11 07:39 AM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,910
Athens, Greece
Pyper70
OP
master
|
OP
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,910
Athens, Greece
|
Well its a cassette deck, a vacuum pump trigger (on a relay), rear defroster, MSD trigger, Gear Vendors trigger, my up/down switch for the antenna mast, two cigarette lighters (Ashtray and console) plus all the accessory lights for my 5 AutoMeter Gauges...Probably 20-25 amps total
Family owned 1969 Charger R/T DualQuad 440/727/GVO/3.55s
|
|
|
Re: Upgrading the fuseblock
[Re: jbc426]
#990820
05/12/11 08:08 AM
05/12/11 08:08 AM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,756
London, England
Gavin
top fuel
|
top fuel
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,756
London, England
|
Quote:
The stock accessory feed is pretty low amperage. How many amps are you planning on drawing with all your accesories on on the second fuse block turned on?
You should use a larger wire with a more direct 12 volt source. You can always use a relay if you want the devices to be triggered by your key when switched on.
 That's what I did... see this pic from my buildup thread (this is actually one pic but see the bottom right for the fusebox, relay etc.
|
|
|
Re: Upgrading the fuseblock
[Re: Pyper70]
#990821
05/12/11 02:27 PM
05/12/11 02:27 PM
|
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,287
West Coast, USA
jbc426
master
|
master
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,287
West Coast, USA
|
Quote:
Well its a cassette deck, a vacuum pump trigger (on a relay), rear defroster, MSD trigger, Gear Vendors trigger, my up/down switch for the antenna mast, two cigarette lighters (Ashtray and console) plus all the accessory lights for my 5 AutoMeter Gauges...Probably 20-25 amps total
I would think your amp draw would be closer to double that. Maybe in the 40 to 60 amp range with everything on.
You could run a separate 12v lead with a properly sized fuseable link through dual 30 amp Bosch relays to a fused distribution block mounted where ever you like. That way it is all off until you turn on your key. Only use the distribution block for your moderate and low amp loads.
http://bluesea.com/category/5/21/productline/126
If you need it, this will help demistify relays.
http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/projects/bosch/relay.htm
I am a firm believer in using seperate directly wired relays for all your higher powered devices, headlights, MSD, electric fans, defrosters etc.
I like the marine grade distribution blocks that are available out there. West Marine has some nice, high-quality fused blocks, but there are loads of maring grade products available out there. Much higher quality for the most part than the stuff available for the automotive market.
In my 1970, I used a fused distribution block for the car's original powered stuff, like interior lights, gauges, tail & running lights, basically all the stuff that used to use power from the main power feed wires via the often troublesome bulkhead connectors through the amp gauge( now bypassed), are treated as just another high-amp circuit protected by fusible links and of course the original car fuses.
The remaining high amp circuits all have seperate fusible link protection with relays for the like fans, headlights, MSD, Fuel pump, electic windows and such.
I also used compact marine-grade, high-amp (200 and 300 amp) fuses to protect my 2 gauge alternator charging cable and my 0 gauge battery cable.
http://bluesea.com/category/5/21/productline/overview/378
Before high-quality, high-amp compact fuses were readily available, a lot of guys wisely ran Ford solonoids to make the main battery cable from the trunk hot only when the were cranking the starter. There was no other way to protect it from turning into a giant lightbulb filiment if it ever short circuited. Then they ran a smaller cable, often unfused and unprotected, to the front of the car for charging and powering everything else.
It works, but never really appealed to me. Once I discovered these compact marine grade fuses, I eliminated the solonoid, made sure I routed the 0 gauge cable wisely and no longer needed the second smaller cable.
Once you get all this done, you'll find the next weakest link in the Mopar electrical system. Their charging systems are notoriously weak at low rpm. Most of the popular fixes are not much better until you rev up the motor.
As you know, the main source of electical power for your car is not the battery. It is the alternator. Mopar and Denso alternators are not very good at producing low rpm power. The best one I was able to find that puts out loads of power at low rpm and bolts right in with a simple adaptor, is the AC Delco CS140 alternator. It puts out 115 amps at low idle and over 200 amps at fast idle.
Reserve & starting power....Odessey batteries are very stout, and can discharge lots of power extreamely fast. The one i'm using has has a 20 second 2500 amp load rating and a 5000 amp dead short rating. It needs large gauge cables to take advantage of all it's reserve power. The main 0 gauge cable leads to the front of the car where it is distributed to the other circuits.
Last edited by jbc426; 05/12/11 02:50 PM.
|
|
|
Re: Upgrading the fuseblock
[Re: jbc426]
#990822
05/12/11 03:25 PM
05/12/11 03:25 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,910
Athens, Greece
Pyper70
OP
master
|
OP
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,910
Athens, Greece
|
Well I have retro-fitted a Delco Remy 100amp alternator in place of the stock alternator. Removed the voltage regulator from the engine bay since its built in on the Delco. I kick her up to 1500rpm when I am first starting her and she is charging at 14.5 volts with 750rpm.
The only draw on the system would probably be the vacuum pump but I am pretty sure that is on a relay coming off of the keyed 12v from the Starter relay. We went through 10 years ago and placed brand new wiring throughout the entire car ourselves, color coded best we could without the tracer the factory used. I think the metal shunt on the back of the fuseblock is the cause to it shutting off when the force of the car taking off causes the fuseblock to shift. I am not running much through that Acc. circuit as my headlights have dual relays and soon going to HID with the ballasts but those are relayed as well.
Family owned 1969 Charger R/T DualQuad 440/727/GVO/3.55s
|
|
|
|
|
.JPG){kind=link}
