Steering Angle modifications.
#986913
05/05/11 08:53 PM
05/05/11 08:53 PM
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 229
Augusta, GA
Lightning
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Augusta, GA
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I'm one of those guys that's into drifting, 'fore ya'll ask.....anyways..... Hey guys, got a question for ya:  think this would be achieveable with our cars? (I'm meaning A-'s, B-'s and M-'s when I ask this) that's about the most that all of the Nissan kids are getting from their cars. they're cutting the mount for the tie rod on their spindles and moving them closer to the hub. But since our steering arms and the lower ball joint mount on the same piece of steel, the strength of the part has me worried a little bit.
Last edited by Lightning; 05/05/11 08:54 PM.
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Re: Steering Angle modifications.
[Re: Lightning]
#986916
05/05/11 10:40 PM
05/05/11 10:40 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,591
Canton, Ohio
Sport440
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Posts: 6,591
Canton, Ohio
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If the angle of the rack steering tierod connection point gets closer to a parallel line to the outer steering arm . It looses control of the wheel. That wheel will be able to clock back and forth up to a few inches or so at that point. In your pic, facing the screen, thats nearly exactly whats happening, or about to happen. It seems the drifters are messing with ackerman to assist drift. With True correct ackerman the Front end steering turns like Butter in corners and offers little resistance. Binding up the frontend in turns with poor ackerman will assist the rear to slide around. I say a real man Drifts with Power   A Boy drifts with Frontend binding  
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Re: Steering Angle modifications.
[Re: cbarracuda]
#986918
05/05/11 11:22 PM
05/05/11 11:22 PM
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 229
Augusta, GA
Lightning
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Quote:
Move the front crossmember 1 1/2 inch forward. No need to cut the rod. You will get 10 degrees caster perfetc for drifting
well, there's a small problem with that: the rules for competitions don't allow for moving the crossmember.
I did find some control arms from a random company that are built for 10 degrees of caster though initially.
they're pretty much pushing things to the limit as far as binding of the rack is concerned. And in order to carry the angle that the crowd and the judge like to see, they have to do so. Which is why I posed my question.
as far as the M-body portion of the question is concerned though: I'm worried about hitting the torsion bars before hitting the frame rails. I figure finding a wheel with low backspacing should help a little bit.
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Re: Steering Angle modifications.
[Re: Lightning]
#986919
05/05/11 11:50 PM
05/05/11 11:50 PM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
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Master
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Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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Quote:
Quote:
Move the front crossmember 1 1/2 inch forward. No need to cut the rod. You will get 10 degrees caster perfetc for drifting
well, there's a small problem with that: the rules for competitions don't allow for moving the crossmember.
I did find some control arms from a random company that are built for 10 degrees of caster though initially.
they're pretty much pushing things to the limit as far as binding of the rack is concerned. And in order to carry the angle that the crowd and the judge like to see, they have to do so. Which is why I posed my question.
as far as the M-body portion of the question is concerned though: I'm worried about hitting the torsion bars before hitting the frame rails. I figure finding a wheel with low backspacing should help a little bit.
How many degrees of caster do most of the drifters run,
more caster makes the car to TRY and run straight
so I would think you only want a minimum caster...
you could cut the steering arms and make them shorter
to turn more BUT you have a frame rail thats going
to get close.... I lengthen mine on a drag car so
I dont over steer
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Re: Steering Angle modifications.
[Re: Lightning]
#986921
05/06/11 12:08 AM
05/06/11 12:08 AM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
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Master
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Romeo MI
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Quote:
most of them are running about 7-8 degrees of caster. (They try to max it out as much as possible, since they're running strut suspension in the front)
they say it helps when the car is transitioning because it speeds up the wheel when they countersteer. Apparently (if I remember right) since the amount of caster they run helps with the direction the car is going in, even when sideways.
Are they running power steering
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Re: Steering Angle modifications.
[Re: MR_P_BODY]
#986924
05/06/11 10:53 AM
05/06/11 10:53 AM
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 229
Augusta, GA
Lightning
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Posts: 229
Augusta, GA
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Quote:
Quote:
most of them are running about 7-8 degrees of caster. (They try to max it out as much as possible, since they're running strut suspension in the front)
they say it helps when the car is transitioning because it speeds up the wheel when they countersteer. Apparently (if I remember right) since the amount of caster they run helps with the direction the car is going in, even when sideways.
Are they running power steering
yes sir, with an PS Fluid cooler too.
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Re: Steering Angle modifications.
[Re: Lightning]
#986925
05/06/11 11:05 AM
05/06/11 11:05 AM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
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Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
most of them are running about 7-8 degrees of caster. (They try to max it out as much as possible, since they're running strut suspension in the front)
they say it helps when the car is transitioning because it speeds up the wheel when they countersteer. Apparently (if I remember right) since the amount of caster they run helps with the direction the car is going in, even when sideways.
Are they running power steering
yes sir, with an PS Fluid cooler too.
They can get away running lots of caster because
they are running PS... if you shorten the steering
arm the effort goes up... if you notice the imports
have a narrower frame rail to get a tighter turn
radius
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Re: Steering Angle modifications.
[Re: Lightning]
#986926
05/06/11 11:24 AM
05/06/11 11:24 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,394
Pikes Peak Country
TC@HP2
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master
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Pikes Peak Country
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Quote:
they're cutting the mount for the tie rod on their spindles and moving them closer to the hub. But since our steering arms and the lower ball joint mount on the same piece of steel, the strength of the part has me worried a little bit.
You could try this same trick, if you have a taper reamer. Remove the tie rod ends from the steering arm, move the tire/rim to the location you want. mark tie rod intersection location on the steering arm, drill and taper ream, adjust tie re-install end, rinse, repeat for other side.
Now, I'm assuming this is a for a track only car so when your steering arm breaks, you only risk hurting yourself and you car by sliding in to the wall. I do not think this is a safe mod to perform on a street car not only for the compromise of structral integrity, but also for the geometric issues it is going to cause in suspension cyling and the resulting tire wear.
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