OIL IS EXPENSIVE!! Anyone running generic brands? Walmart? Kmart? Quickie mart? (thats only in Springfield) LOL!! Other? I know a major mfr has to make those. And what about oil weights?

I've used various major brand oils over the years in my mope. My daily driver 440 (with occassional QMile blasts) used to get Castrol, Valvoline, Havoline, Quaker state... and I used to run 20/50 or 40Hd but Im thinkin about goin 10/40. The new 440 was built years ago and only has 100miles on it but only goes in /out of the garage for body work. I think walmart is good enuf for it for now. I heard its Pennzoil. As for once its finished...Im thinkin 10/40 synthetic. Maybe royal purple. Can you use synthetic on a motor with only 100miles on it? Moly top rings too. Hmmmmm.....

My 70k mile daily driver mitsu 4cyl gets whatevers cheap and meets engine specs. 10/30 or 10/40 weight.

So how bout it? Brand names? Generics? Synthetics? Oil Weights?

What are ya'll runnin.....?

The 2007 truck gets EXACTLY what the Factory recommends: 5w20 conventional. I use Valvoline. I use 20w50 Valvoline VR1 in the Charger.

As thin as possible. We are trying to get mileage and power.

I stopped using 20w50, 20 years ago.

I put whatever is cheapest in the dart.

Im using the Summit high zinc content partial synthetic this year. So far So good.

Napa and Carquest oil is made by Valvoline. Thats what I've used for years in all my cars. Weight is what ever your engine needs.

10-40 AmsOil in the 440. Drain it and put it in your driver. Royal Purple is good too. Clean. Napa Gold 1515 Filter.

Quaker State,,,Been using it for years.
5-20 in my wifes 2006 minivan and 15-40 in everything else

That depends-
In my old cars (non-roller drivetrain) and in my 85 Kawasaki Turbo Motorcycle-
Rotella 20W-40 or equivelant Diesel engine oil. The lighest weight I can find usually. And that is sometimes 15W-40, and I see a newer 5W-40 being available, but it's a full synthetic and I'm not sure it has the Zinc. The non-synthetic oils still have the zinc in them- and you need that for a flat tappet cam. Been doing this for the past 5 years or so without any issues at all.

In my newer cars- Walmart's generic full-synthetic oil in whatever weight is called for in the owner's manual. My wife's 2002 LandRover Freelander is synthetic-specific. You cannot use a traditional oil in it. Again- been doing this for years in my 95-up cars/trucks.

I've worked at Autozone in the past and I can tell you- Oil is Oil. It all comes from the same Dinosaurs! I can't see a reason to buy name brand when I can basically get the same stuff as a generic.

now oil filters- that's another topic.....

Just my
CC.

I used to go as thin as possible for the power thing but, dad and I lunched a pulling motor on 15-40 and the machinist said he wanted to see 20-50 as the compression and valve spring pressure really needed the weight. I also run the dinosaur flat tappet in my street car and with current no zddp's in oil I fear a lifter/lobe failure if I dont run something a little heavier/sticker film. BUT on the other side we used to run 50w in the pulling motors in the 90's and we also lunched a motor by over weighting it and not pushing enough through the motor at about 8k.

A puller-motor? ....HUGE load on that

I have been using either WallyWorld 5 quart jugs for my daily driver(super convenient) ....and 2.5 gallon jugs from TSC for the diesel dually.

Brad Penn 20W50 in the race car.
Castrol 5W30 in the cars.
Rotella T 15W40 in the dually and motorhome.
all with Car Quest filters.

problem is that unless its on sale they charge more than i can get vavlolne for.

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Napa and Carquest oil is made by Valvoline. Thats what I've used for years in all my cars. Weight is what ever your engine needs.

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