Re: 73 satellite brake questions
[Re: RonP]
#981597
04/27/11 10:46 PM
04/27/11 10:46 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
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Quote:
just need to get on the right path and get it done.
Assuming stock discs/drums. get an iron M/C of the right bore (not sure but not 1&1/8", iirc 7/8" or 1") or an alum M/C from Doc or Eberg along w the 4 bolt to 2 bolt adapter plate. On your M/C choice just check the inside of the rear piston recess that it has the shallow groove for the neoprene retainer (that you have) to lock into as opposed to the smooth tapered barrel like the inside of a thimble used on PB apps (Doc/Eberg wont mistake that but parts houses can). Can get a snip of vac hose the same length as the groove in the end of the pushrod if you need a new one. Bench bleed the M/C 1st EDIT not sure on the prop valve if needs changing, Doc would know
Last edited by RapidRobert; 04/28/11 09:17 AM.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: 73 satellite brake questions
[Re: RapidRobert]
#981598
04/29/11 02:29 AM
04/29/11 02:29 AM
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,168 Vancouver, WA
MoparMarq
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,168
Vancouver, WA
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Attached is a pic of my '72 RR (same cowl as yours). Went manual with the 4-bolt to 2-bolt adapter on the aluminum m/c (can't remember the source, sorry). Car was power discs.
You'll need to obtain the (painted) plate behind the polished adapter plate. Otherwise, you'll have a gap in the firewall between the m/c and the cabin. The power booster would have covered this hole. That's what the plate is for. The manual m/c is mounted slightly higher (IIRC), because the pedal pushrod has no linkage as it does with the power setup to increase the pushrod travel with pedal travel (in effect, lowering the pedal ratio). You can do it without the plate, but you'll have the gap, allowing hot underhood air to enter the cabin, and creating somewhat of a fire hazard inside the cabin, should a fire occur underhood.
I believe the plate is the same from B- and E-bodies, and from disc to drum m/c's. But I don't believe they are repro'ed. So a JY score is the only way. Others may chime in otherwise.
As the other poster said, make sure you have the round rubber "grommet" (for lack of a better term) to hold the pushrod in the master cylinder piston back, lest the pushrod fall out and you're left with no brake pedal...
That grommet is available from Master Brakes or Master Power Brakes (whatever the name is), I believe.
Good luck.
Just realized from looking at the pic, the gap would be above the m/c, not below. Sorry. Also, the plate is referred to, I think, as a "reinforcing plate", as it does help the firewall support the force applied to the pedal (and hence, to the firewall) on manual brake applications...
Last edited by MoparMarq; 04/29/11 02:37 AM.
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Re: 73 satellite brake questions
[Re: DoctorDiff]
#981600
04/29/11 12:27 PM
04/29/11 12:27 PM
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 862 Iowa State fan
kilroy
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 862
Iowa State fan
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When I did my conversion I actually used a c-body firewall plate off a 67 4door with a homemade 4 to 2 aluminum adaptor.. Its a little longer but will work just fine.
1973 Charger, former SE, former auto
I'm not trying to be difficult, it comes naturally....
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Re: 73 satellite brake questions
[Re: kilroy]
#981601
04/29/11 01:11 PM
04/29/11 01:11 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,633 Jacksonville, NC
RonP
OP
top fuel
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OP
top fuel
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,633
Jacksonville, NC
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Thanks folks. I am going to post up a pic tonight of what I have. Any input on the valve? I really doubt my dad changed that as I think all he did is get rid of the booster. I know the car stopped as I drove it to graduation in 1988 and that was the last time it hit the road.
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Re: 73 satellite brake questions
[Re: RonP]
#981602
04/29/11 02:51 PM
04/29/11 02:51 PM
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,168 Vancouver, WA
MoparMarq
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,168
Vancouver, WA
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Quote:
Any input on the valve? I really doubt my dad changed that as I think all he did is get rid of the booster.
Many threads on here discuss the factory prop valves. Most agree that, unless you're doing some concourse resto - which you're not - it's probably better to put in an adjustable proportioning valve, as the factory ones were kind of a one-size-fits-all deal, even though the different body styles were all over the map, as far as weights and front/rear weight distributions. Plus, wet vs. dry pavement changes the dynamics a bit, too. Having the rears lock up first is definitely not good...
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