I've read a bunch of old posts in which guys have claimed to have gotten good results with this stuff, but I'm curious how you guys are using it.

Eastwood claims that you can apply this stuff directly over rusty metal (after wire brushing to remove loose stuff), but they also market it as a product to use in conjunction with their Rust Converter. This stuff supposedly converts rust into an inert form that turns black and is ready for painting or sanding.

So is the rust converter necessary or can I just "encapsulate" my rust?

They also sell a product called Fast Etch that is supposed to dissolve rust and leave a protective zinc-phosphate coating on the metal. How does this compare to the Rust Converter?

There are just too d@mn many rust proofing products on the market today. I'm getting ready to buy a spray bomb of Rustoleum and call it good.

I like it, but I use several different products. I etch first, regardless of Eastwood's claims, just for insurance. Anything I have done with encapsulator is still rust free to date, so it must work. I also like POR 15, but some guys don't like the extra steps involved. It works too. I have yet to try Rust Bullet, but probably will.......you are right, there are so many now. I will try anything once, just follow directions and you will probably make out fine. Oh, I still use Rust-Oleum as well, the industrial paint is pretty tough for spray bomb paint, I do pulley's, brackets etc. with it.

So you are using something like the Fast Etch product first and then the Rust Encapsulator but not using the Rust Converter, is that right or are you using all three???

I have done both, actually, the encapsulator sticks to just about anything. I use Rustmort, or the POR 15 version called Metal Prep. They both dry completely, with no sticky residue. Metal Prep leaves a white powder, I just take a scuffy pad to it and blow it off. What exactly are you repairing?

I guess the key is whatever you use to convert the rust must dry for a day or two, so patience is needed. Here is a pic of a gas pump door I used Rustmort on. It looks the same today, with no primer, after 8 months sitting in my garage in bare metal. No flash rust anywhere.

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So is the rust converter necessary or can I just "encapsulate" my rust?

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I use it on light to medium rust. If there are flakes of rust falling off the area I use a rust converter if replacing the metal is impossible.

Eastwoods encapsulator is decent.
I prefer Rust Bullet myself. Thats good stuff

I just replaced my trunk pan (cut out all the bad metal) and on the underside, where there was surface rust only on the frame rails and inside of the back quarter panels (again, stress surface rust only...not bad enough to replace), I used the Eastwood Rust Encapsulator and I liked it. I does turn everything black and it looks no more like rust. Then, I painted it and it looks great. Haven't been on there long enough to know if it will last, but I thought well enough to use it (or was suckered into buying it In either case, it made me feel better. Peace of mind is something

I have used it with and without the rust converter.IMO it works much better with the 2 part rust converter.It appears that it also wears better if you top coat it per the instructions.The top coat appears to act as a sealer.I am very satisfied with the product.Much easier than the POR.

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What exactly are you repairing?

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Windshield channel

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I prefer Rust Bullet myself. Thats good stuff

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Is Rust Bullet a one step product or does it require multiple convert, encapsulate and top coats steps??