Need stock cam specs for T/a 340 cam. My rebyuilder tells me that it is the following:
valve lift duration at 0.50 degrees
int .464 222 degrees
exh. 464 226 degrees

I have been told this is not correct

He is suggesting I install:
valve lift duration
int .477 224
exh. 480 230

any suggestions [Email][/Email]

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Votes accepted starting: 03/29/11 05:07 PM
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a TA 340 will have the same cam specs are a 340 4 barrel with auto trans.

The Comp Cams HE 268 is pretty close to a stock 1970 automatic cam for the 340. It's not exact, but close.

http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=619&sb=2

The stock was the same as in a regular 340, I think itäs still available from mopar performance.
This one had a comp cams x-treme energy grind: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=heDqU7af-lc&feature=player_embedded

There were two cams that went into those engines.... one for the autos and the other is for the manual trans cars. Mopar Performance sells the restoration cam that makes good all around power and is very tame on the street.

.429 intake
.444 exhaust
268/276 Adv duration
228/235 @ .050
114 center line

Part number is P4452782.

Now here is the fun part!! If your running T/A rockers and the original push rods you CAN have a problem. Originally the T/A lifters had a plunger height that is LOWER than a stock or aftermarket lifter. With that being said and you add a little machining to the head surface or a thinner head gasket your push rods WILL be too long. ALSO the factory T/A rocker gives little room for aftermarket push rod cups.... a wide cup can bind up under the adjuster.

The fix is to mock everything up first.....put the cam, lifters, push rods and rockers in and make sure that the push rods don't bind anywhere before you fire it up. If it does bind up and you need new push rods, give Smith Brothers a call. Tell them what you need and for about $125.00 and three days later they will be at your door.

If you look in the picture you will see how much of the adjuster is showing above the jam nut on the rocker. On this T/A engine all of the push rods were hitting the rocker before it got to max lift....not good.

Hope this helps.

Finally, something that I can identify with. I bought this car new when I was sixteen and am doing a ground up restoration as we speak.
I had the ngine rebuilt when the car was about four years old and was a disaster after that. They changed the crank and put in a cast with no balancer. They put in 9:1 aluminum pistons, metal intake gaskets and machined onew head shorter than the other. The end result? A huge loss of power, no brake vacuum and pushrods breaking on a constant basis. Had it redone later with a different cam and that solved the pushrod problem, but lost my bottom end. No one could ever explain the pushrod problem until you just specified it. Many thanks! car is being done 040. over, diamond forged 10:1 pistons and forged crank. Not to mention massive head work and a change of cam to possibly what i mentioned earlier. I told my builder I was worried about the pushrod problem as well so will show him your message.

CAnt wait to see it!!