Hey Guys,
I know this is very basic stuff .. but wanted to run past the experts here to see if I'm overlooking anything. This will be the first time I'm attempting to remove my six-pack carbs (I need to fix a leaky Accelerator Pump on the Center carb), so wanted to make sure I am doing this right.

On the Passenger side, I will first need to disconnect all the vacuum lines and PCV hoses. For the Choke assembly, I was going to try to un-hook it right at the Choke clip (and leave the thin vertical rod that comes up from the manifold in place - is this correct?).

For the Fuel lines, it looks like I need to disconnect all 3 at the carbs and at least loosen up the outboard carb's line at the fuel line connector (see arrow) - so that I can move it to get to the center carb's rear pass-side bolt.

And on the Driver's side, looks like I just need to disconnect the throttle linkage and throttle return spring there.

Then, just un-bolt the front carb, and then the center carb.

Does this sound all correct or are there steps I'm overlooking here?

To put back on after fixing accelerator pump or rebuilding center, I'll just need to slap on some new carb-to-manifold gaskets and do everything in reverse, correct?

Thanks all for help and advice as always!

You're heading in the right direction.. ...Sometimes the fuel bowl adapter will turn loose in the bowl instead of the fuel line...If this happens{depending on which carb} you can just unscrew the line at the brass blocks and deal with the carb fuel line off the car...Usually it's too tight to get both wrenches in there to do it on the vehicle... By the way, you can slip the desired carb out of there without taking all of them... I usually don't change out the carb-to-manifold gasket when I tune/change out parts...Do yourself a favor and use the holley blue non-stick gaskets on the rebuild{ holley kit 3-396 IIRC}...You'll be glad you did...And make sure after the rebuild that the accelerator pump housing is tight...If it leaks the screws are tough to get to on the car...

Thanks screamindriver! I appreciate the tips very much!

Ok, I was hoping that the Center would come out with the front carb still on.. It looks close, but that will save me a gasket and maybe some more problems.

I suspect these are stock-style fuel lines (with the inline brass blocks). I was hoping to add an in-line Fuel Filter as well, but with all the lines being metal I don't see a place where I could do it -- unless I put it before the fuel pump.

How are you six-pack guys adding in-line filters?

Thanks a lot!!

In my case, I have a course mesh strainer type before the pump{in line at the rubber hose} and the factory vapor return/filter in the stock location {bolted to one of the mechanical fuel pump bolts}...But you can get a nice{and cheaper} replacement at napa and plumb it in before or after the pump...Anything is better than nothing...

Thanks much screamindriver!

I noticed you have the Promax Metering block on your setup. What is the benefit of adding that and is it a relatively straight forward process? I've seen a lot of folks on this list recommend Promax.

Also, I noticed you don't seem to have the vacuum tube going from your distributor to the center carb as mine has. Is there a reason for this?

Thanks a lot!

You may as well go ahead and order a new set of upper fuel lines. I've never been able to remove an old set without rounding off the IF fittings. They are generally seized on, and the nuts are pretty soft metal.

Herb's has the best deal I've found:
http://www.herbsparts.com/products.asp?cat=102&pg=6

My 440 dynoed out a little over the 500 hp mark with basically a factory 6-bbl set-up...But it needed the idle circuits fattened up and also turns out had a lean surge on the street so I swapped out the factory metering block for the pro-max unit which is better suited for that kind of HP...The promax block has no provision for the vac advance and is more of a race oriented piece so the reason for no advance...I also added the billet secondary metering plates for easy tuning and that way I did'nt alter the original plates for the original matching 6-bbl set-up...One piece of advice I can give is to try to tune your set-up as much as possible using the original parts and see if you have any issues if you've added HP...The promax billet secondary metering plates are a great addition when you get to the fine tuning stage because they use standard holley jets instead of drilling your original plates... Another trick is removing the lead plugs on the secondary carb idle screws if needed for better idling...But as I've said, tune your set-up in factory trim and see what you have and don't spend money before you need to...They're a blast to drive !!! P.S. If the accell pump diaphram is the only thing leaking{and the only reason for disassembly} it may just need retightened but take a peek at it and if you determine it needs replacing just replace the diaphram...No reason to fix anything else that is'nt broke.. Here's a pic of the promax billet secondary metering plates installed..

Thanks a bunch screamindriver again for the tips on this! It helps me out a lot.

Thanks 471Magnum also for the link on the new upper fuel lines. Mine are looking pretty old, so this is probably a good time to freshen them up as well.