Quote:

---

My first thought is do the heads have to remain in stock OOTB condition? I agree that a broad power band is better than a higher peak power at the expense of flexibility. I know good head work isn't cheap, but I've come to believe that it's one area where it's worth spending some money. Chamber work will cost some compression, but simple milling will get that back with interest. If the heads flow better you may need less cam to get the job done. As for the cam 109-110 for the LSA should work OK. Check with your favorite cam grinder and see what they think.

---

Quote:

---

Do away with the torker and get an air gap or performer RPM it will give you a wider torque curve without much loss in top end power if any. Plus a custom cam.

---

Quote:

---

Fellas -

I'm building a road race engine and it's time to pick the camshaft. I'm new to road racing, so could use a bit of advice here.

............

Your thoughts?

---

Not sure what you are trying to achieve other then "road racing'. From my experience, if you are on the track by yourself, low end grunt is fun, but with street adapted cars/chassis's, putting the torque down is rather difficult on corner exits, but if you are trying to pass the car in front of you, its almost always done at the top end (ie HP), with overtaking combined with out braking.

I would just build a well tuned, balanced, reliable, able to be flogged motor, and get the driver some seat time first, the motor is not that important until the driver, tires/suspension and brakes are sorted out first.

Just reread your question, forget the motor, if you are going NASA, you need seat time before anything

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Fellas -

I'm building a road race engine and it's time to pick the camshaft. I'm new to road racing, so could use a bit of advice here.

............

Your thoughts?

---

Not sure what you are trying to achieve other then "road racing'. From my experience, if you are on the track by yourself, low end grunt is fun, but with street adapted cars/chassis's, putting the torque down is rather difficult on corner exits, but if you are trying to pass the car in front of you, its almost always done at the top end (ie HP), with overtaking combined with out braking.

I would just build a well tuned, balanced, reliable, able to be flogged motor, and get the driver some seat time first, the motor is not that important until the driver, tires/suspension and brakes are sorted out first.

Just reread your question, forget the motor, if you are going NASA, you need seat time before anything

---

Quote:

---

start reading up on oiling mods for the amc v8 also. your going to need it done in that application to keep from losing the bottom end.
similar mods that are done to a cleveland series ford btw. once thats done it should be fine.

steve

---

Quote:

---

My favorite AMC ever; worked on the restoration of this one. Don't remember much about the motor, except it was, uh, on the big side (like most of the other cars) when we ran it in the vintage races in the '90s. I seem to recall that the '68 AMC effort was plagued with engine problems; this car has a dry sump system. And the most wicked V8 exhaust I've ever heard. It spent a lot of time between 4500-7500 as I recall, but it had more gear than yours.

---

Definitely a sweet car. Mine is currently Canary Yellow, but will either go red/white/blue (Penske) or yellow/black (Revson/Woods AMX) - -



Thanks,

Scott

Quote:

---

Don't forget to get a good oil pan...

"AMC road race pans in internal and external pickup configurations. Both AMC pans feature full competition baffling with 5 doors and 7 baffle assemblies, and they’re 7 inches deep with a 6 quart capacity."

---

Quote:

---

No Air Gap for AMC. Will see if I can find a dyno comparison between the Torker and RPM.

Will check on a custom cam as well.

Thanks

Scott

---

yes there are air gaps for amc

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

No Air Gap for AMC. Will see if I can find a dyno comparison between the Torker and RPM.

Will check on a custom cam as well.

Thanks

Scott

---

yes there are air gaps for amc

---

Quote:

---

Bulletpruf, the yellow & black RWR car is either the #1 or the #2 red/white/blue RWR; the Javelin next to it in your pic (with Penske crouched next to it) is the one that was just at auction. Woods used to buy Penske's previous-year racers (whatever they were, including Indy cars). The RWR Javelins were re-bodied (noses & quarters) Penske '70 Javelins. There was a lapse in the AMC factory deal coming to RWR, at which time the color scheme changed.

---