Re: Anybody running an Edelbrock 750 on their big block?
[Re: DusterKrazy]
#956092
03/22/11 12:56 AM
03/22/11 12:56 AM
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,319 Puyallup, WA
StealthWedge67
master
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master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,319
Puyallup, WA
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I'd start at Edelbrock's website. They have a pretty solid tuning chart that will give you a good baseline of jet vs. rod combinations. read and understand all of their tuning advice, and don't make any changes until you feel confident that you understand what the change is trying to accomplish. Edelbrock does a pretty good job of supporting their customers, and their owners manual is a good read. Unfortunately, you won't find a whole lot of positive reactions to the Eddy 750 on this board. Many, including myself, have had a bear of a time with them. I think most of these, however, were with pretty serious street / strip type efforts. If its a stock type street motor with a mild camshaft, you'll likely have good luck with it. Great to hear you're enjoying your car
LemonWedge - Street heavy / Strip ready - 11.07 @ 120
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Re: Anybody running an Edelbrock 750 on their big block?
[Re: gdonovan]
#956094
03/22/11 08:35 AM
03/22/11 08:35 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,244 Canada
Kam*Kuda
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master
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Posts: 4,244
Canada
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I had an edelbrock on a 440 and it ran well. I have had a demon, holley and eddy carb on the engine, All were able to be tuned to work well.
1970 Barracuda Convertible 1968 Satellite Street Strip car 1654.5 Mustang 1955 Land Rover
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Re: Anybody running an Edelbrock 750 on their big block?
[Re: gdonovan]
#956095
03/22/11 08:41 AM
03/22/11 08:41 AM
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,531 AZ
Mike P
pro stock
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pro stock
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Posts: 1,531
AZ
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I’ve been building AFB/AVS style carburators since the late 60s and they’re one of my favourites. Unfortunately finding OE AFB/AVS in the wrecking yards is a thing of the past and for the last several years I’ve had to buy NIB units on a few occasions. My experience is that quality control generally SUCKS....either that or it’s just my own bad luck.
I’m running a 750 on my stock 76 440. I put in on right out of the box and what a PIG. When I pulled the step rods what I found was that one of them had not been machined. Nothing like putting a cork in one of the jets to kill performance.
That being said it’s still a good design once all the bugs are worked out. I think you will probably find it’s going to be rich right out of the box. You will probably be able to correct this with a rod change and not have to change jets. You will also probably want to use a bit lighter spring under the pistons to delay the step rod lifting. Lastly you may find that you have to set the floats a bit lower to prevent heatsoak boil over if you live in a hot climate or high altitude.
1957 Plymouth (Hemi, Dual Quads, A833 4 Speed 9 1/4 w 4.10) Sold 1937 Dodge Pickup (Hemi, 6X2 intake, 46RH, Dana 60 w 4.56) Sold 1968 Plymouth Valiant 2dr sedan (354 HEMI, 46RH w/4.30 gears) under construction
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Re: Anybody running an Edelbrock 750 on their big block?
[Re: ahy]
#956098
03/22/11 11:08 AM
03/22/11 11:08 AM
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,445 N.Wilkesboro,NC
DusterKrazy
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N.Wilkesboro,NC
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Quote:
As far as the carb goes, I've never run it but I think you'll get lots of comments/advice.
For the alternator, you have several choices. Is it equipped with AC? I'll assume yes. That limits choices somewhat. The MOPAR alternator was never the best at idle. Dim lights is a common problem. The later "square back" alternator was better than the "roundback' of the mid sixties. The easiest/cheapest upgrade is a later model "square back" that should bolt in your existing brackets. The mid/late 70's version was rated at 78 amps vs about 50 max in the 60's. Two choices. Go to your autoparts store and order a 78 amp alternator for - say - a 1978 Diplomat or order a Powermaster alternator with similar rating from Mancini or Summit or Bouchillon. The alternator will bolt in but requires electrical upgrades to be reliable. The OE harness and especially bulkhead connector cannot handle the higher load. A wire of at least 10 guage, preferably 8 from the alternator to the fender relay will fix this. Install a length of 12 or 14 guage fusible link in the charge wire. With this modification the OE ammeter will not work and you will have to add a voltmeter or convert your existing ammeter to a volt meter.
With the alternator upgrade get a new regulator. If you keep the single field type, make sure its an electronic replacement (common at part stores) and ground one terminal of the newer dual field alternator. Or upgrade to the dual field regulator.
With quality problems on rebuilt alternators recently, I'd go the Powermaster route personally.
Thanks! Lots of good advice here! The previous owner had bought the car from an estate sale of a Chrysler executive over 20 years ago and it was special ordered. It does not have air, which I believe is strange for being an ordered car.
I have located an alternator from a late 80's Dodge truck. It's not the Denso and it's fairly big. What are the thoughts on these? I believe it's application is from a '87 Ram 4x4.
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Re: Anybody running an Edelbrock 750 on their big block?
[Re: DusterKrazy]
#956099
03/22/11 01:12 PM
03/22/11 01:12 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 12,675 Columbia, CT
moper
I Live Here
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I Live Here
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Columbia, CT
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The other thing to check is there are two Edelbrock Performer 750s. One is a leaned out (permanently) replacement for the mild 454/460 trucks - List #1407. One is a true performance 750 with the performance air bleeds - List #1411. No carb should be bolt on and go. So I would buy the strip kit and expect to tune it. Especially with a non-stock camshaft.
Well, art is art, isn't it? Still, on the other hand, water is water! And east is east and west is west and if you take cranberries and stew them like applesauce they taste much more like prunes than rhubarb does. Now, uh... Now you tell me what you know.
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Re: Anybody running an Edelbrock 750 on their big block?
[Re: RapidRobert]
#956102
03/22/11 06:33 PM
03/22/11 06:33 PM
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,943 San Angelo, Texas, U.S.A.
1968RR
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,943
San Angelo, Texas, U.S.A.
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If you're going to try and tune the carb, don't forget the step-up springs. They can make a big difference in how lean/rich it runs. Edelbrocks (in my opinion) don't usually require too much tuning out of the box, but Holleys take a little bit more tinkering to get right. Since you've already decided that you'd like to tinker, have you thought about switching to a Holley (I'm NOT trying to start a Edelbrock vs. Holley here, I'm just making a suggestion). I've had luck with both types of carbs. Good luck.
Last edited by 1968RR; 03/22/11 07:50 PM.
"When I'm in a slump, I comfort myself by saying if I believe in dinosaurs, then somewhere, they must be believing in me. And if they believe in me, then I can believe in me." - Mookie Wilson
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Re: Anybody running an Edelbrock 750 on their big block?
[Re: DusterKrazy]
#956104
03/22/11 08:39 PM
03/22/11 08:39 PM
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 7,664 IN
ahy
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master
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 7,664
IN
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Quote:
Quote:
As far as the carb goes, I've never run it but I think you'll get lots of comments/advice.
For the alternator, you have several choices. Is it equipped with AC? I'll assume yes. That limits choices somewhat. The MOPAR alternator was never the best at idle. Dim lights is a common problem. The later "square back" alternator was better than the "roundback' of the mid sixties. The easiest/cheapest upgrade is a later model "square back" that should bolt in your existing brackets. The mid/late 70's version was rated at 78 amps vs about 50 max in the 60's. Two choices. Go to your autoparts store and order a 78 amp alternator for - say - a 1978 Diplomat or order a Powermaster alternator with similar rating from Mancini or Summit or Bouchillon. The alternator will bolt in but requires electrical upgrades to be reliable. The OE harness and especially bulkhead connector cannot handle the higher load. A wire of at least 10 guage, preferably 8 from the alternator to the fender relay will fix this. Install a length of 12 or 14 guage fusible link in the charge wire. With this modification the OE ammeter will not work and you will have to add a voltmeter or convert your existing ammeter to a volt meter.
With the alternator upgrade get a new regulator. If you keep the single field type, make sure its an electronic replacement (common at part stores) and ground one terminal of the newer dual field alternator. Or upgrade to the dual field regulator.
With quality problems on rebuilt alternators recently, I'd go the Powermaster route personally.
Thanks! Lots of good advice here! The previous owner had bought the car from an estate sale of a Chrysler executive over 20 years ago and it was special ordered. It does not have air, which I believe is strange for being an ordered car.
I have located an alternator from a late 80's Dodge truck. It's not the Denso and it's fairly big. What are the thoughts on these? I believe it's application is from a '87 Ram 4x4.
On the alternator, since you are't dealing with AC brackets, you have lots of choices. MOPAR used several alternators other than Denso in the 80's. I believe the Denso was the best.
The best retrofit solution is a 120 A Denso. It has lots of idle output. You can get the complete kit with brackets from Mancini (Andy F designed). The mid/late 70's 78 A square back from a parts store is the most budget friendly way to tackle this. With either, wiring upgrades mentioned are needed.
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Re: Anybody running an Edelbrock 750 on their big block?
[Re: 6PACMAC]
#956107
03/23/11 01:19 AM
03/23/11 01:19 AM
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,445 N.Wilkesboro,NC
DusterKrazy
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,445
N.Wilkesboro,NC
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Sounds like I can do some stuff with it, so I may just try that. I did pull a couple of the plugs and it definetly indicated that it is running a little on the rich side.
Is Demon Sizzler still building Thermoquads??
Last edited by DusterKrazy; 03/23/11 01:48 AM.
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Re: Anybody running an Edelbrock 750 on their big block?
[Re: 1968RR]
#956108
03/23/11 01:50 AM
03/23/11 01:50 AM
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,445 N.Wilkesboro,NC
DusterKrazy
OP
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OP
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,445
N.Wilkesboro,NC
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Quote:
If you're going to try and tune the carb, don't forget the step-up springs. They can make a big difference in how lean/rich it runs. Edelbrocks (in my opinion) don't usually require too much tuning out of the box, but Holleys take a little bit more tinkering to get right. Since you've already decided that you'd like to tinker, have you thought about switching to a Holley (I'm NOT trying to start a Edelbrock vs. Holley here, I'm just making a suggestion). I've had luck with both types of carbs. Good luck.
I have a Holley that is good but I am afraid the 600 is way to small. I already have the Edelbrock and it's not to old...
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Re: Anybody running an Edelbrock 750 on their big block?
[Re: DusterKrazy]
#956109
03/23/11 09:29 AM
03/23/11 09:29 AM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487 Florida
scratchnfotraction
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
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before you swap alt,get one of the newer solid state elect voltage regulators to replace the old points type you have with the round back alt with one feild wire this will help the dim lights at idle and works way better than the points style VR best 12$ upgrade I did to the 68Dart I had you can run a square back alt by grounding the 2nd feild wire and hook the other up for an up grade, the one from the truck should bolt right in place of yours you can use an external regulater denso 120 amp(late 80s cars/trucks/vans) on stock non a/c pullys,has the double grooved belt pully on it and works on the stock external VR for a good upgrade i have one on my 440 in the sig pic on stock brackets,you just crimp on eyeloops for the 2 feild wires and bolt it on IMHO,I would do the 12$ replacement VR first and see if that fixes it enuff for you,before changing the stock alt for another x2 on a timeing light and vac gauge to start tuneing on the carb,all 3 work together to dial it in good luck
Last edited by scratchnfotraction; 03/23/11 09:33 AM.
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