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So using this theory my custom steering arms should sit outward closer to the wheel and tire to maintain the relationship with the rear axle/balljoint centerline correct? How much of a deviation from this line would be acceptable?













Racers have raced with the steering arms reversed, with Reverse ackerman and its been acceptable in the past for race cars.

But IMO thats old school and no longer acceptable.
Ive done it and it is flat out unacceptable IMO.

In a perfect setup the ackerman is 100% correct and the steering tierods and lower control arms are parralel and the same exact length.

But you cant always do that, and they dont have to be. Another helpfull link is the Longacre web sight.

www.longacreracing.com/articles/art.asp?ARTID=13

It helps with Bump steer.

The two biggest problems with mounting a rack, are addressing "Bumpsteer and Ackerman"

You have the Ackerman figured out, Your next issue will be bumpsteer. Thats not so easy to address. Since your working with imaginary lines it will be more of a trial and error education.

For a Race car, Many will overlook those problem issues of a Rack swap. As long as it goes Straight fine, Whats the problem.

I did the internal Kframe rack swap back in 96 based on a article from "Chuck Senotore" Let me tell you, Thats a Race deal only!

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everyone says if you swap spindles side to side

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here is a picture of what i did over the winter on my wall car. K frame weight went from i think 31# to 19#. manual gear box was 16# to a rack 10# i think these weights are right. plus i didnt even weigh the arms, drag link and other stuff. IDK if it will work yet though

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I'm no expert but I'm going to say that rack will give you bump steer.. It has to long of a body which puts the inner tie rods outside of the inner pivot points.I just spent a quite bit of time studying suspensions before I started making a C5 front suspension cross member for my Challenger..

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Did you build your own steering arms? I'd like to see more pics if you dont mind...might get some ideas

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Made my own. Pics tell the story.

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What rack did you use?

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What rack did you use?

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What rack did you use?

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i bought a pinto rack for mine off ebay for about $100. the arms i got off a member for $100 and i bought a tie rod kit from S&W for i believe $45. i would have had to rebuild the whole front steering anyway so i think it was probably a wash on cost. bet i lost over 25 lbs off the front also

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Dont forget you will need some type of coupler shaft from the rack to the steering wheel shaft. I used two borgesion joints and a 3/4 splined shaft. I think in 96 the joints were $40 apiece and the shaft $20+ or so. And a 3/4" heim joint to tie it to the fenderwell. $20 bucks new or $5 swap meet. I think my swap was around $360 total, plus Lots of labor.

I fabbed it in 3 different times.

Once with the ball joints/steering arms flipped.
Once with the ball joints correct and fabbed steering arms.

And once with the K modified more like yours to get the Rack Back as far as it could go, right against the BB oil pan front wall.

And now with my new oil pan Im even considering moving it back more for a forth refab.

I guess I dont like to do things once.