I was just wondering If there was any BB strokers out there running an easy on the valve train hyd flat tappet making big hp.

Well the motor was never on a dyno...but I built a 512 inch stroker for a friends car.Flat tops ,Eddy heads,M1 intake ,with a 950 Proform carb,, TTI headers.. I told Tim at bullit cams all the specs and that was a street driver with a track visit only a few times a year...He built a hyd flat tappet cam that works real good..this thing really hauls a-- on 93 octane fuel..Let the experts build a cam for you,everybody has a cam they think will work,but if you let a cam builder spec out your cam I'm sure it will work..I have a 12.5 car and met him on the hiway,,he left me like I was on the brakes..I think they are in MO. 662-893-8022

Whats big horse power? I run a stock stroke 440
with a hydraulic flat cam.. It makes around 500 to 525
horses.. Going on five years since built over three
hundred runs plus cruise nights.. It all depends what
your looking for.. I wanted to keep it stock sounding
and stock appearing..
The car weighs 3940 with me best et [Email]11.74@117.05[/Email] shifting
6200 going thru the traps 6400 to 6500..

5000 lbs and 117 mph puts you well over 600 hp. Are you sure the weight is correct?

Even at 4000 lbs, your numbers are impressive.

To the OP, you need to tell us what you see as big power. Do you have a et goal?

Haven't built a Hydraulic FT stroker mopar but I have with a few other makes. Generally when you go to a mild cam you can still make great power/torque but what you must do is make that combination very "head Dependent"

I while back i treid to acquire a set of the Chapman Stage VI 260 cfm (standard port) heads for such a project, when you have a head that flows more at only .400 or .450 lift than a well-ported 906 can at .600, you can easily reason that you could put a very mild 'broomstick' cam in that motor and it would still make awesome power and phenomenal low end and mid range torque too. Back in the old days big cams were a way of overcompensating for the lack of decently flowing heads. The consequence was to make more HP above peak torque you had to kill as much low end as you could afford to or couldn't make up with more static compression.

I'm not saying this is the BEST way to build a motor, I'm just saying that you definately could.
I took this approach with my 427" stroker SBF in my Cobra, I've got a killer set of heads and a comparatively mild hydraulic flat tappet in it, mainly because I wanted to be able to cruise an 1800 rpm 2.38:1 5th gear OD ratio at 65mph and still have plenty of torque to accelerate on the highway without having to downshift...the result is all-over torque and a lightweight smallblock motor that has an even better all-over powerband than the original 427FE big block. Motor made 511hp and 527 lb.ft, is that "big"? probably not, but it's comparable Hp/cube to any 600hp/500 out there of any brand. Plus it'sdefinately reliable, easy and FUN to use and way more than adequate for the car. Could I have put a bigger cam and more rear gear in it?, Sure I could, but I chose not to, but the ~6200 RPM rev cieling in this case is definately more head dependent than it is cam dependent...but you can get away with that pretty easy in a sub 2500 pound roadster.

My pump gas 464 C.I. 440 block with non ported Eddy RPM and a six pak intake and semi stock carbs. runs high tens and low elevens (depending on track elevation and weather conditions) using a Comp Cams XE295HL cam and lifters car is a ladder bar 1971 3450 lb duster with the muffs and aircleaner on, runs that just like I drive it on the street That motor is for sale, BTW I'm putting one of the bigger strokers back in it soon The first pump gas stroker(518 C.I.) ran low tens corked up on pump gas That motor has a solid roller cam, bigger ratio rocker arms and bigger heads

My RPM headed 493 runs right at 500hp-600ft/lbs with a .509 at 8.97:1 CR. Not what anyone here would consider "big power" but considering how small the cam is and the fact that does it on 87 reg, it should give you an idea of what is possible.

Kevin

I don't know if it's BIG hp but board member Goreo has a street-strip '68 Dart running a 500 inch stroker with 11-1 CR and ported Edelbrocks. The cam is a custom hyd. flat tappet around 250* @ .050 on a 112 lobe sep.

With a Victor intake and a 950 HP the car has run 10.80's @ 123.

With the same carb but switching to a Street Dominator and a flat hood the car has run 10.90's @ 121.

This is @ 3400LBS. with a 4K converter, 4.10 gears, and drag radials.

Some video--> http://tinyurl.com/64x3bl7

This is an interesting post here... I've put up a couple other posts asking the better of the two - selecting a solid or hydraulic roller cam - because I think/thought I was at the limit of my set up using a hydraulic lifter cam. I'm definitely happy with what I have been able to do.... however as I have found out, from replies and input from people I've spoken to directly, a mechanical cam will make more hp compared to a hydraulic lifter cam...

My best with ootb Eddy RPM's and a voodoo 513in/533exh in my 67 Coronet (see other posts "Comp Cams question" or "hydraulic or solid lifter cam" for more info about my car if you like) is 11.83 @ 113.xx with 1.65 60'. I guess it's a matter of what you want out of the car/engine, your budget - ha, I looked into the costs involved putting in a mechanical cam, and if you are willing to maintain it compared to using a hydraulic cam; those you pretty much 'throw it in and go' versus adjusting as needed.

I'd actually consider a hydraulic lifter cam.... only if I knew I could hit 11.30-11.00s but realistically, I'm guessing I would need head work and other upgrades as well.

Sorry for my rambling here, but this is a good post

Dave

I run a Bullet Hydraulic roller in my 517 and I love it, I've got chapman Stge VI max wedge heads though so (using the logic I expressed above) I only need .600 lift to hit flow numbers most heads need ~.700 to get, plus these are better below the curve. I figured I could always put a .680-720 ish solid roller in it later and pick up maybe 25-30 more horses but I'm comfortable that I'm about at the reasonable 700-720 limit of the Factory block anyway. This motor revs like no Hydraulic anything I've ever buil, that's for sure, it definately revs just like a solid roller to 6800.

In my first 451 , I ran a Hughes 4854. Car would run 10.9x- 11.0x . 11to 1 with 452 heads.
http://www.hughesengines.com/TechArticles/8oldercamshaftprofilesbigblockhydraulic.php

Well I started this post because we built a 505 with stealth heads and a Hughes hyd flat tappet but never had on a dyno or the track.The cam is 250-255 dur@50 576-593 lift.This is in a 70RR 4200 stall 355 gears and it seem's to run real well,but the whole time we were building this motor I was kicking myself in the you no what for not going roller.I know I'm leaving alot on the table with the hyd cam but had already sunk a ton in the build.Any of you all think it will get into the mid 11's?I have no idea this is our first street strip car.

My 451 is built on a tight budget with an XE284H , 241/246 @ .050 and .507/.510 lift I believe. I run 11.7's all day with a small ET street and 3.91's in otherwise full street trim with a 3650 lb me and car

I too was thinking, wow......I'm leaving alot on the table with this one. But I can always upgrade over the winter months. I drive the car alot on the street and this keeps it very smooth.