Looking for a radiator that is decent, yet isnt 700 bucks?
What options are out there?

Seems any of the application-built ones are a complete ripoff.
What are you using on yours?

stock replacement is all you need for those trucks.

they're HUGE radiators!

I'm running a 383 based stroker at 438 inches, 535 lbs of torque, 505 hp, and I'm using the stock radiator. with an electric fan from a jeep (19") it'll sit in 95 degrees, in traffic, and maintain 170-180 all day long. I have a 160 degree stat in it, and the fan controller is on at 185 off at 170.

the radiator will be more than enough to handle your stock motor, even if you've got the truck loaded to the max and are towing with it all the time.

cheapest radiator I've found has been at radiator barn.com saved me about $120 over the autozone price. Rock Auto might be cheaper though, especially with a discount code

I'm sorry...shame on me. I gave no info. Sorry.
This is for a carbed 408 that will make between 500 and 550hp.
I am going to keep the trans cooler separate.

I've seen some nice aftermarket ones, but what they want for them is nuts.

Then I see lots of 200 dollar aluminum radiators that are universal type deals. The smallblock chevy ones from griffin and afco seem to look good.

I was hoping to see some of these out there. I know there are a few stout drag dakotas on here and would love to see what they are running, and also what they did to mount them. These rads as you know mount to the support with those stupid pegs so I would have to d something different to make an aluminum rad work.

I'm not entirely opposed to running a factory one. Don't get me wrong. But I see them for around 150 shipped and if 50 bucks more gets me one in all aluminum, I would rather lean toward that if possible. I guess standing there looking at the horribly weatherbeaten plastic tanks on my stocker kind of turned me off and sent me looking for something all metal.

Another thing is the aftermarket universal rads all have the cap that I have seen. I am going to run the cap in the top hose so it's the highest point. DOn't want to have to take a new rad and weld the top shut. Then it is no longer a 200 dollar radiator...

Thanks for the info though...good to see it holds up fine in your case. At least if I say screw it and get a stocker I know I'm not being foolish.

AH, yes...carb'd 408 will need more radiator than a stock EFI motor!

but, I think even that carb'd 408 will be happy with the stock radiator if that's what you decide to do. I can understand wanting the fresh clean look of a new all aluminum one. if you do decide to cheap out, I wouldn't worry at all about a stock Dakota radiator.

if you want a sealed radiator with the cap in the highest point (in the hose) then get a newer Dakota radiator. my '99 has the cap in the radiator, but my '04 has the cap in the upper radiator hose between the radiator and the thermostat housing. I think they went to that style with the 4.7s, so...'01? through 04 will work.

Oh yea, maybe I should add to my post and say that all I have up front is the radiator. no more AC, no PS cooler, no automatic trans cooler, etc.

if you keep the A/C, and have all that other stuff infront of the radiator adding restrictions to the airflow...you might need a bigger fan/mechanical fan...but I think you'll be ok.

again, on the newer gen IIIs they have a mechanical fan AND an electric fan on them (why, I don't know!!) and a lot of guys remove the mechanical fan completely, leaving just the little 10" e-fan, and with the A/C on, and all that other stuff infront of the radiator, the truck still stays cool in hot summer traffic while blowing cold A/C.

which tells me that you'll be fine no matter what you do!

My 2000 dakota and durango both have no cap on the radiator, just the cap in the hose. I would suspect you must have an early 2000 truck or something, I would use the 2000 radiator and shroud and you will not have a problem. I am one of the guys who pulls the mechanical fan out and I tow with both my rigs and never overheat either, even going up big mountain passes towing way more than I am supposed to. A stock 2000 set up will cool your 408 with no problem.