|
Re: Brake Master Cyl Questions
[Re: SealockRacing]
#928696
02/14/11 05:32 PM
02/14/11 05:32 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,531
Jacksonville, FL
Chris2581
master
|
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,531
Jacksonville, FL
|
I like the Mopar master cylinder that Ehernberg sells.I've had one for many years and it works great.
Nautilus Racing-
We use Superformance gaskets and Turbo Action converters/products.
|
|
|
Re: Brake Master Cyl Questions
[Re: SealockRacing]
#928700
02/14/11 08:54 PM
02/14/11 08:54 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,894
Florida
Locomotion
master
|
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,894
Florida
|
I have OEM manual discs and 10" drums with original proportioning valve on my Dart Sport. I installed a Cardone reman. 1821 m/c on it with an adapter and it's worked well. It's listed for a manual disc/drum Aspen/Volare application. (Forgot what years.) The Cardone 1822 # is for power brake applications but I don't know how that would affect it's performance with manual brakes.
Haven't tried using it without a proportiong valve yet. Also heard some talk about swapping the lines to direct more pressure to the rear because of the bigger tires. But haven't tried it or heard any conclusive evidence it would help.
I also have a Cardone 1860 which is for a manual brake truck application that I'm considering trying when I install aftermarket brakes up front. The bigger the piston area of the brakes, the bigger the m/c bore should be. But each combo as well as personal preference for brake "feel" will influence the final choice.
The FWD master cylinders should not be used in a drag racing/RWD application. They are proportioned differently.
A while back at a junk yard, I collected a few extra resevoirs from full size trucks & vans. The extra capacity doesn't hurt and will just require trimming some of the tabs underneath to make them fit a passenger car m/c.
Last edited by Locomotion; 02/14/11 08:57 PM.
|
|
|
Re: Brake Master Cyl Questions
[Re: Locomotion]
#928701
02/14/11 11:02 PM
02/14/11 11:02 PM
|
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 6,257
gulfport, ms, west mi
rowin4
master
|
master
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 6,257
gulfport, ms, west mi
|
I replaced mine with late 70's pick up master cylinder , drum / disc 4 bolt cast iron , bolted right up from Orielly's , used a proportioning valve from Jegs.  
it's ok to butt heads, just don't do it with a butthead
|
|
|
Re: Brake Master Cyl Questions
[Re: Chris2581]
#928702
02/14/11 11:07 PM
02/14/11 11:07 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 526
NC
barracuda man
mopar
|
mopar
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 526
NC
|
Quote:
I like the Mopar master cylinder that Ehernberg sells.I've had one for many years and it works great.
 nice master cylinder. 
|
|
|
Re: Brake Master Cyl Questions
[Re: rebel]
#928706
02/15/11 11:37 AM
02/15/11 11:37 AM
|
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,058
bigfork mn
dragram440
super stock
|
super stock
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,058
bigfork mn
|
I have some brake issues also. I have a master from a mid 90's Ram truck 2wd and it is for power brakes and I have manual stock rear drum and stock front discs off a diplomat and just ran the lines with no prop valve and I seem to have a very hard pedal. Basically takes bolth feet to stop it but they seem to work good other then the hard pedal. I was thinking it might be the rod angle to the master. It is going uphill just a little. Anyone have any ideas?
Last edited by dragram440; 02/15/11 11:38 AM.
67' charger 499 RB
10.57 at 127
|
|
|
Re: Brake Master Cyl Questions
[Re: dragram440]
#928707
02/15/11 12:09 PM
02/15/11 12:09 PM
|
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
|
Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
|
Quote:
I have some brake issues also. I have a master from a mid 90's Ram truck 2wd and it is for power brakes and I have manual stock rear drum and stock front discs off a diplomat and just ran the lines with no prop valve and I seem to have a very hard pedal. Basically takes bolth feet to stop it but they seem to work good other then the hard pedal. I was thinking it might be the rod angle to the master. It is going uphill just a little. Anyone have any ideas?
Measure the bore in your master cylinder and go with
a little smaller bore... it will decrease the effort
you need
|
|
|
Re: Brake Master Cyl Questions
[Re: SealockRacing]
#928710
02/15/11 03:09 PM
02/15/11 03:09 PM
|
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
|
Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
|
Quote:
thanks guys! think you all pointed me in the right direction. i got back on rockauto and found a master cyl for a 73 duster, manual brakes-front disc, rear drum made by raybestos. its brand new for 60 bucks. would that be what i need?
and another question, do i need a factory type prop valve? the car has a line lock for the fronts which i need to replace, and the line coming out of the line lock goes to the left front wheel where it is tee'd to the right front wheel. for the rear, it just comes out of the master cyl and goes to the back of the car. is there a need for a factory prop valve? or even an adjustable prop valve?
You wont want the factory prop valve... but you would
want the adjustable prop valve.... reason is you
arent using the factory sized tires and the car doesnt
have the stock weight balance anymore
|
|
|
Re: Brake Master Cyl Questions
[Re: SealockRacing]
#928712
02/15/11 04:09 PM
02/15/11 04:09 PM
|
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
|
Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
|
Quote:
so mr p body, i would want that master cyl, run the front lines like they are with the line lock in there, and then add the adj. prop valve for the rear lines?
any brand or preference for both the line lock solenoid and adj. prop valve?
If your running skinny tire in front you want the
adjustable valve on the fronts... otherwise the fronts
will lock up on a hit of the brakes... you want the
rears doing most of the work now with their large size
|
|
|
|
|
