Ok here we go ....

has anyone found a way to get the Pertronics kit to play nice with the old factory tack ?

or do i have to send out the tack out and have it updated ...

I would like to put the car back to the duel point set up later


Tanks
David

I have the Petronix Ignitor II set-ups in 2 cars with factory Rallye tachs, 70 B, 71 E,....are you using a factory coil, and still running a ballast resistor, if so get rid of them,...

Hi Dayclona/mike

so bypass the ballast and replace the coil with what ?

sick of the dancing tack...

and i think thats way it feels like the spark is dropping over 3500 rpms

Most guys gut the BR and just run a 10 ga. wire between the terminals. I think that module requires a .6 or 1.0 ohm coil.

Dave,....you didn't state what Pertronix Ignitor conversion set-up you have I or II, or III, or the pro billet dist III....as there are varing coils for each set up



As far as the ballast, you can eliminate it, either remove the resistor coil from behind/inside the ballast, and solder a #10 peice of wire into it,(if you want to keep the ballast for "looks" only), or just join the 2 wire ballast bayonet ends together with a double spade electrical connector/stak-on

Tell me what Petronix kit you have, I have their catalog for applications/set-ups

Mike

The messed up Tic Toc Tach in a 68 Charger I had started working when I installed a Petronix kit on the car. What exactly is the issue? Did it work before you changed parts?

the deal with the tack is it jumps around it never smooth and i know i dont idle at 2k rpm

ok this is the part # on the pertronics

I just like posting pics

Stock ?

Dave, you have an early Ignitor I series, but your using a stock coil ( 1 ohm/70:1 turn ratio), loose the coil, because it's ohm /turn ratio isn't rated for the Petronix, loose the ballast as described in the other posts,.....make sure the black wire - (neg) is on the - (neg) side of the coil, red + (pos) is on the + (pos) side of the coil and make sure your ignition lead (usually blue wire) from your harness is on the + (pos) side of the coil, these are the wiring pocedures for NO BALLAST in the system,...use a correct Petronix Flame Thrower coil, you'll need a 1.5 OHM/115:1 turn ratio coil,...I'd recommend the epoxy filled Pertronix pn# PNX-40111,....cheapest place for it is Summit Racing, $32,...coil looks factory, the Petronix coils have a built in resistor, if you wire your system without the factory ballast as described, your system will become a true 12 V ignition set-up, right now using the factory coil/ballast with the Petronix your system is actually 9 V or less, and this is possibly creating havoc with your tach/Ign




Few tips Dave, with the Petronix, don't run solid core plug wires, it'll destroy the HallCell, run a premium copper terminal dist cap, not an aluminum, set the HallCell air gap with a plastic feeler gage (.040), never use any metal feeler gage, if you have to trouble shoot the IGN system, never leave the key in the IGN on mode for more than 30 seconds with the motor not running as it will burn out the HallCell, if you have to work on the electrical system, with key on, disconnect the red Petronix (+) lead from the coil

Mike

Thanks for that ....

Im trying to get it all tuned and running better than good ..
we are going to MATS and we really want to run her down the track for giggles ...

and then we are going to drive to Spring Fling ... I know she will make it to LA and back ...

good tune = somewhat bad mileage...

Interesting question David.

Thanks for bringing it to light for I'm about to order an Ignitor II and get a Flamethrower I (40111) for my Daytona. Never thought about the enhanced ignition and any affects it might have on my factory tach. Based on what Mike has said, my gut says no..

Troy for the same money, upgrade to the Ignitor III conversion kit, not to be confused with the Petronix III billet dist., This conversion kit will only fit a single point Chrysler dist,...has increased output over the II, plus has a RPM limiter/cut out you can tailor/select to the RPM range of your liking,...again very straight forward install, and it all fits under the stock cap,....if you can install/set points, you can install this

Mike

To confirm what Mike stated earlier. I emailed Pertronix earlier in the day prior to replying to this thread. This was Pertronix's answer.



Troy,

99 percent of all tachs that trigger of the negative terminal of coil work fine. In some cases, when the tach is not reading properly, a 0.01 microfarad 1000 vdc capacitor can be installed in series between coil (-) terminal and tach.

at what point would you recommend going frome the flamethrower II to the III setup? A certain HP level, or street vs strip application?

wow opened the can up ...lol

i think it may be the tack as well,,, but the motor wiring is all new so if there is a bad wire it ...UNDER THE DASH !!!!!

Wow it like a new motor ...well not so much ... but is a lot better ..


Tanks a Dayclona