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I bought a aluminum world block and some time this summer I hope should have a 572 (or bigger) 750 hp short block done (maybe 800hp) is this block strong enough to mount off the engine ears with Moroso solid mounts as I do now with my 452 650 ish HP???

Or is an engine plate a must!

Need everyones

Thanks in advance appreciate any and all thoughts.

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My opinion... with solid mounts you are putting alot
of stress on the side of the block... I have seen
the mount ears broke off on different blocks... I
own one... as to the poster on the movement of the
engine.... the starting line is far worse but thats
why I believe in engine limiters... they keep the
engine from moving

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Thanks for the quick reply guys. I should have said it will be 99% drag race. Car is all steel (save for the hood) was 3700 last year (with the fast [Edited by Moparts - Family Friendly Site - Keep it clean] at the wheel) It is having ladder bars installed and a 10 point (up from 6) and lightweight mopar/Wilwood drag brakes to replace the bendix stock 4 piston power brakes on there now. Ran 10.36 best @ 129.7 12 to 1 pump gas. roller 272/282 @ .050 cam .700 lift 110 LSA. Indy SR heads welded (uses .800 offset rockers now) and hand ported 330 cfm at 600 and 700 lift. Heads may flow a little more addressed a sharp short turn issue after flow test that was causing turbuance and flow stall, rounded the short turn off but did not retest! 1050 Dommy 2" adapter as per Indy suggestions. 5000 stall.

"new motor" will be aluminum world block 572 or 580 as it's a second and is supposed to be tight at the bottoms of the finished bores and may need rebore and finish hone to 4.530. 12 to 1 pump gas (same heads as above) indy SR heads welded (uses .800 offset rockers now) and hand ported 330 cfm at 600 and 700 lift. 274/282 @ .050 roller .715/.702 lift 112 LSA. Sane intake and all just the new short block (is a possibility it could end up a 604 or 612) maybe a 4000 stall???
Thanks again.

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Then I would definately go with a plate.

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Does a plate allow alot of vibration in the car? I know were talking race cars here, but for a street/strip car would it tend to turn it into a rattle trap?

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Your going to pick up some added vibration but most
never notice it.... as for a rattle trap... tighten
the bolts... if you want you can just add a torque
strap on the drivers side to hold the engine down
the track then loosen it for street(with rubber mounts)

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make sure you have the arp studs for the mains, not just arp nuts.

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Thanks on the heads up!
We (machinist and I) were looking at that last night. followed the world block thread before I ever thought of owning one. Russ Da Beast I II III or maybe back to I?? LOL! cautioned me right away also when I bought it he went with a complete stud kit on his World Iron block for Da Bee but I see there is PN's in the thread for just new studs if I can find a place to order them from.

So what make and where did you get that plate??
I have a set of Mancini Elephant ears but thinking of going with a one piece plate like this
http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/moplstmi.html

am aware I'll have to limit for and aft movement and relocate my alternator to a low mount guy hear (moparts) sells and I think Wes carries them.

like Mr P-body says lot of stress on the block not sure how strong the sides of them world block Aluminum's are??

My machinist (and racing helper/buddy) thinks I should leave the Moroso solid mounts in and add a motor plate?? LOL!! would solve the fore and aft thing!! LOL!! (hard getting the motor and tranny in the car with them on though!!!)
one thing I don't like about the Moroso solid mounts is they make the engine sit 1/4 higher than normal.
I have another cross member I was thinking of cutting the mounts off and that would allow room to run a line straight back from my Milidon oil pump as I'm in the same tight pickle as Wild Bill right now with the seconds oil line to the swinging pick up??

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I switched to Moroso solid mounts in our 70 RR when the passenger side mount failed. After that I went straight to solid and dealt with any vibration. Just a heads up in terms of the one solid, one rubber option does not eliminate mount failure. This was with a 383 that was pretty stout but nowhere near what you are stating.

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back in the eighties I went Moroso solids then put a stock pass back in to lessen the vibration. I ran it that way for near 17 plus years with the same pass side stock mount. before that tore three driver stock ones apart in a row. Street strip working from 13.6 to 10.71 before i installed the pass solid back in a couple years back for a 542 RIP LOL!

stayed with two solids it for this 452
can't see a big worry on the pass as it just gets compressed by engine torque not pulled apart like driver!
thanks for all thoughts!