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I spoke with my local Plastics guy this week. I was asking about heating the windshield to bend at the corners(64 B-Body). He said not to heat it. Lexan absorbs moisture (maybe why it fogs at night?). He said it can blister when heated. I was told just to bend it and screw it down. I want a stock look so the stainless moldings will be reinstalled. My 63 Polara H/T Lexan went up and down with a strap. Velcro at the ends held the strap in place. Sanding the edges and slight heating with a torch yields a very nice finished product.
Doug

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Thanks Mike. How did your surgery go?

Any special kind of paint? Don

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Nope no special paint

I can see much better BUT its distorted and I'm not
happy with that but the doc says that will go away

EDIT
I forgot to say I paint the inside of the glass

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I'll tell you how I do it... once I have it cut to
size using the glass as a template (use the inside
of the glass for the template) I file the edges nice
then heat the edges with a propane torch to give it
a clear edge again... I like to paint the perimeter
with black paint... tape off the area not to be painted
then use a fine paper or scotch brite then paint...
I attach it with screws... place the glass in place
and hold it with tape... drill a pilot hole through
the plastic and the metal spacing them evenly... pull
the glass and drill a clearance hole in the plastic
for the screws you will use.... clean the holes and
clean the glass... install a rubber/foam gasket and
install the glass
NOTE
when you use a torch to clear the edge start on a
scrap piece to get use to how much heat to use...
the heat will give you a radius also to give a
finished look

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Mike,what material between the Lexan and the body? I've used the factory weatherstrip for the back glass but the windshiled curves a lot in the corners. I don't think it will hold. I'm also looking for a material to fill the gap between the stainless trim and the Lexan where the weatherstrip would normally fit. I would like it to look as factory as possible. The car is a 64 Belvedere.
Doug

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I just use a high density foam rubber from the hardware
store... about 3/8" thick(might be 1/2")...cant really
say what to use as a filler for the stainless... do
you have a rubber molding to hold the windshield in
and what size lexan... if you use the molding you
could slide a filler in on the back side to fill
the space(painted black so you dont see it)

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The Lexan is 1/8". I have the factory weatherstiping. It slides over the pinch flange. The window slides in the opposite side. Then the outer portion is tucked into itself to lock it down. When assembled the weatherstrip is H shaped in cross section. Without the strip there would be aprox 3/8" gap between the stainless and the window. The 3/8" foam tape would probably work. Are you saying you compress the 3/8" foam tape between the Lexan and the pinch flange? I thought it would need something thinner. This is where previous experience is worth its weight in gold.
Doug

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I think you guys are way over complicating this. make a cardbaord template and trim to fit like you want the lexan to. it will give you a better pettern than the factory glass. I tape and cut it with a jig saw. not sure if the foam will absorb water or not but you can get the correct stuff from any chassis shop and the desired thisckness to make the windshield flush with the body. no need to heat the lexan for the curve. just start at one side screwing it down and work your way over. it will fit like a glove.

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I dont think it over complicated at all Tony...
if you use cardboard and lay it on the window frame
you wont get the curve you need and CAN/will come
up short... I did the first time... but you can do
it anyway you wish

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Any special kind of paint? Don

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I think you guys are way over complicating this. make a cardbaord template and trim to fit like you want the lexan to. it will give you a better pettern than the factory glass. I tape and cut it with a jig saw. not sure if the foam will absorb water or not but you can get the correct stuff from any chassis shop and the desired thisckness to make the windshield flush with the body. no need to heat the lexan for the curve. just start at one side screwing it down and work your way over. it will fit like a glove.

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I dont think it over complicated at all Tony...
if you use cardboard and lay it on the window frame
you wont get the curve you need and CAN/will come
up short... I did the first time... but you can do
it anyway you wish

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notice the nice curve of the windshield, if not for the screws you couldn't tell it was lexan. also gives you a close fir.