1966-1970 CRASH BOOKS
#87262
07/11/08 01:32 PM
07/11/08 01:32 PM
|
Anonymous
OP
Unregistered
|
Anonymous
OP
Unregistered
|
OK lets try this again. I posted this earlier with a little different title and the post got bogged down with the typical arguement between professional resto shops justifing their time spent. I don't want any of that here so please, unless you have the answer I seek don't start posting your opinions.
Can someone direct me to a site that has the flat rates times for refinishing either a complete car or by individual panel?
I have a couple of cars that need repaint.
#1 car has one repaint over original paint. The repaint has the DA dance and the body needs to be blocked and resprayed. This is a solid, rust free, original sheet metal car. It does not need to be painted under the hood or trunk and there is no vinyl top.
#2 car has one repaint (color change) over original paint. Again, This is a solid, rust free, original sheet metal car. It does not need to be painted under the hood or trunk and there is a vinyl top on this one. This car should probably be stripped.
These are 66-70 B bodies.
|
|
|
Re: 1966-1970 CRASH BOOKS
#87263
07/13/08 11:31 PM
07/13/08 11:31 PM
|
Anonymous
OP
Unregistered
|
Anonymous
OP
Unregistered
|
|
|
|
Re: 1966-1970 CRASH BOOKS
[Re: polaraholic]
#87265
07/14/08 12:29 PM
07/14/08 12:29 PM
|
Anonymous
OP
Unregistered
|
Anonymous
OP
Unregistered
|
for the day crew.
|
|
|
Re: 1966-1970 CRASH BOOKS
[Re: Jim_Lusk]
#87268
07/14/08 04:06 PM
07/14/08 04:06 PM
|
Anonymous
OP
Unregistered
|
Anonymous
OP
Unregistered
|
Crash books were just like a Mitchell or Chilton's manual that gave flat rates for mechanical jobs. Crash books had flat rate times averages for refinishing panels and a complete paint job. If I remember correctly they had rates for new panels and old, or at least for prepping new panels as compared to panels with existing paint on them.
This is what I am looking for not a price estimate.
|
|
|
Re: 1966-1970 CRASH BOOKS
[Re: polaraholic]
#87269
07/15/08 12:53 AM
07/15/08 12:53 AM
|
Anonymous
OP
Unregistered
|
Anonymous
OP
Unregistered
|
Quote:
I'm sure if anyone here had the info you want they would have given it by now. Have you tried ebay? About the only sites I go to is here and ebay but I hear everybody talking about googling stuff. If you haven't tried that it would be a start. If there is an old body shop in your area they might have something.
Ebay was a good idea that I had not thought of, thanks.
I found some there and here is a link to them. Some of you that didn't understand what I was looking for and may be interested in what they are.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayIS...A:IT&ih=003
|
|
|
Re: 1966-1970 CRASH BOOKS
[Re: stumpy]
#87271
07/15/08 12:29 PM
07/15/08 12:29 PM
|
Anonymous
OP
Unregistered
|
Anonymous
OP
Unregistered
|
Quote:
We know what you were looking for. They just have no meaning in todays shops. Different paints and painting systems and prep procedures make them worthless. Which is what we were trying to explain to you but you aren't listening because you are so sure you're being ripped off.
Apparently you missed it in the other thread where I stated that the cars were to be painted in the original enamel paint, so new paint and procedures don't apply. Time is time, it doesn't matter if it was 40 years ago or today. In fact, if anything, you should be able to to things quicker simply because there are a few new tools that can save some time. Yes, I am looking for a better finish than was applied by the factory, but I am also willing to allow additional time for this. Please don't assume that I am not listening or don't understand what I am doing.
|
|
|
Re: 1966-1970 CRASH BOOKS
#87273
07/15/08 05:06 PM
07/15/08 05:06 PM
|
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,407 S.E. Florida, USA
rrunner
master
|
master
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,407
S.E. Florida, USA
|
Quote:
Crash books were just like a Mitchell or Chilton's manual that gave flat rates for mechanical jobs. Crash books had flat rate times averages for refinishing panels and a complete paint job. If I remember correctly they had rates for new panels and old, or at least for prepping new panels as compared to panels with existing paint on them.
This is what I am looking for not a price estimate.
I have 70 body, here's some plymouth. If you need more let me know
|
|
|
Re: 1966-1970 CRASH BOOKS
[Re: rrunner]
#87277
07/16/08 11:36 AM
07/16/08 11:36 AM
|
Anonymous
OP
Unregistered
|
Anonymous
OP
Unregistered
|
Thanks rrunner!! Much appreciated.
I have captured those pictures for myself.
|
|
|
Re: 1966-1970 CRASH BOOKS
[Re: GMP440]
#87279
07/16/08 06:46 PM
07/16/08 06:46 PM
|
Anonymous
OP
Unregistered
|
Anonymous
OP
Unregistered
|
Thanks, I think I will be OK as I am bidding on some on Ebay so I will have them on hand.
The last picture is pretty blurry but that will be resolved when I have my own/
|
|
|
Re: 1966-1970 CRASH BOOKS
#87280
07/16/08 07:10 PM
07/16/08 07:10 PM
|
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,407 S.E. Florida, USA
rrunner
master
|
master
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,407
S.E. Florida, USA
|
If I have what you need don't buy them I can copy and send/fax them to you. What I posted is only part of that section.
Last edited by rrunner; 07/16/08 07:27 PM.
|
|
|
Re: 1966-1970 CRASH BOOKS
#87281
07/16/08 08:04 PM
07/16/08 08:04 PM
|
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 730 Nampa, ID
MadMatt
super stock
|
super stock
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 730
Nampa, ID
|
I've spent 23 in handling auto insurance claims. We used to use the Mitchell Manuals, but of course everything is computerized now. The manuals paint times were primarily for refinishing new replacement panels or panels not so badly damaged that they were repairable. I don't recall that the manuals had any times for complete repaints. How could they, since vehicles came in all different sizes, with/without vinyl tops, etc. You also had to consider R&R time depending on what trim had to be taken off, etc. In the end, it was always a matter of what was the best deal you could negotiate with the shop - and it still is today. Many factors went into the shop's calculation such as the color (on reds, yellows, etc. the paint materials actually cost more than on say blue or white) how slow or busy the shop was, and dozens of other factors. You also have to consider that Mitchell times were to (supposedly) reproduce a factory equivalent finish. On Mopars from the years you own, that would mean waves, orange peel, drips and sags. It was NOT the time needed to produce a show quality finish. I can tell you that the main reason most shops do not want to do restoration work is because of the time to block sand the entire body. This can run to hundreds of hours and most body men at a production body shop will flat out refuse to do it. It is grueling labor and they can't "beat" the book time like they might hanging a quarter panel or skinning a door, so the body man typically is losing money doing it unless he is getting a higher rate than he would for normal body work. Also, any wise shop will want to strip off the old paint before they refinish as there is always a chance of incompatibility between the old and knew paint that could cause lifting, shrinking and such.
Some see the glass as half empty, some see the glass as half full. I just drink straight out of the bottle.
|
|
|
|
|