If I can depress the shrader valves on both sides of my A/C compressor and there is no pressure relief happening does this mean that there is no freon in the system and it it safe to pull the compressor or disconnect lines/hoses to aid in the removal of my engine? or could the A/C system still be pressurized elsewhere. don't know much about A/C's but would guess the system has no refrigerant based on this finding. just don't want to crack any fittings and spray oil/dye everywhere under my hood.

thanks

It's empty.

You may still leak some oil but no pressure.

Are you planning on returning the AC to service? If so I try to keep the system sealed just as a (not really necessary) precaution but if you are ditching it go for it.

Sounds like it's MT.

FWIW Years ago I was removing a AC system in a closed garage with a kerosene heater on the floor 10 feet away. When I bleed tha gas out of the system into the air in my closed garage, it turned to a nasty heavy black smoke that was really nasty, so don't do it near any open flames.

Had the system charged over the summer (3.5 pounds of R12). Was told the compressor was weak based on high to low side pressure differential, but didn't want to deal with it then. my project to replace the front bumper has now progressed to me pulling the motor gettign teh underhood area in great shape. My initial thought was to replace the compressor now ($120) since opening the system up and pulling the lines back at the expansion valve will help getting the motor out and not risk damaging any of the A/C components back there.

However, now I am unsure. When I pushed the shrader yesterday all the pressure was relived very rapidly with the valve BARELY pushed in (10-20 seconds). I barely pushed the valve as I was worried about getting oil/dye everywhere. Thought it would of taken minutes to bleed off the pressure. To me this suggests I have a leak somewhere as the system was charged less than 6 months ago. don't see an oily mess anywhere and don't have a UV light.

What are my options (the system is/was still R12)? I had emailed classic auto air a few weeks back before knowing the system may have a leak and got the impression that they would go to R134, but that would be pricey. Ss there some way in which I could keep the present system in a "preserved" state (i.e., don't recharge with freon, but seal to keep system viable)?......without an option like this it would appear that converting to R134 now (update hoses, replace compressor, drier, and expansion valve, flush system and charge.....pretty much guaranteed to run over $1,000+ though!) and swallowing a huge bill is my only option. I honestly do not see myself using the A/C, but want/need the system to remain viable as this is a nice car (69 Coronet R/T).
fear would be that in a few years i will have done tons of damage to the system if i don't address things now.

Any Thoughts????

Thanks

http://www.freeze12.com/

This is good stuff and a lot less expensive than R-12. The only problem will be finding an A/C shop that still has R-12 equipment, and is willing to mix the two or purge their machine. They should all be going to Freeze-12 anyway since R-12 is expensive.

The big problem with converting to R-134 is that the molecules are much smaller than R-12 and the 134 leeches through the walls of the hoses. To do a thorough conversion, you need to upgrade the hoses to R-134 compatible.

Bttg,

I was in the same boat. Car is equipped with A/C but not fuctioning. I decided to remove and store away everything for future use. I don't drive the car any long distances so the "luxury" of A/C was a no brainer for me.
Good luck on your decision.

how hard is it to find an a/c shop that still uses R-12. I want my daily driver to keep air and was going to stay with stock replacement parts. i figure a fully functionong/maintenanced stock system would keepe cool in Fl and Tx. Been suffering through brutal summers with no a/c since 2003.

not real hard now, but is going to get harder and harder as time goes on. also price of real R12 is high now and will only get higher. I know the shop that filled my system last said that they would not be doing and R12 in the future due to cost and as such reduced demand. Substitutes are available, but seems with everyone there are folks with concerns about them. so at some point using R134 likely will become a necessity. whenever one converts to 134 it is going to be a big deal (evacuating/flushing system, replacing parts like the drier, upgrading to compatible hoses, etc....). from my understanding if these steps are not taken performance will suffer.

any substitutes that don't require all those hose/drier changes? I only ask because if i do need to make those changes then can i order compatible stuff from the parts stores like autozone like i do with stock stuff, or would i need to have someplace make me some usable hoses?