I don't have any info on my motor and would like to have it dynoed.Would a engine dyno give better info or should i leave the engine in the car and run on a chassis dyno. My other concern is my converter flashes to 5400 so would that mean i wouldn't have any info below 5400? 408 with 590 cam and mildly ported eddy heads.

Personally if I have a choice I'd rather go on an engine dyno. There are way too many variables with a chassis dyno.

A couple of 1/4 mile passes will tell the pertinate facts.

The engine dyno seems like the better of the two choices. If something is going to leak or need fixed I think I'd rather find out before the engine goes in the car.

Hands down a chassis dyno. Its your complete car on the chassis dyno so you get to see if all of your stuff is working properly versus the engine dyno that is using its igniton, fuel system .......
On the chassis dyno you can see everything and don't have to worry about where you are going.

Personally,I think an engine dyno is the way to go.
I put a lot of research into it,and bought a Superflow engine dyno so I could do alot of testing and hopefully learn some things to help myself,and customers and friends out.
Some people will argue that chassis dynos are accurate,but I disagree.I won't eat up this whole post with why,so I will leave it at this;
An engine dyno that is properly calibrated and run by an operator with the correct procedures is the most accurate way to test an engine.
I hope this helps you in some way.
Keith

I can't argue with Keith at all.

That being said, the chassis dyno helped me find a gremlin in my engine - transmission combination that I had chased for over a whole season. This was a major gremlin and I don't know when I would have found it otherwise, but the engine dyno would NEVER have found it.

At the same time it allowed me to get the plugs, jetting and timing dialed in, which I know I could have done on an engine dyno.

There are down sides to the chassis dyno. Lots of tire wear. Cooked tranny fluid if you aren't on top of the whole procedure. Stagnant air that skews accuracy. Probably lots of others.

The good news? I only paid $125 for 4 hours on the machine!

The good news? I only paid $125 for 4 hours on the machine!

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A good part of my reasoning for putting the engine dyno in my shop was so other racers could afford to get an engine dyno tested.
The cost of a day on an engine dyno was not in the budget for most bracket racers.I hope to be able to help out my Moparts buddies and fellow bracket racers on this.
Keith

Northern Indiana,a little bit of a haul for you!
I really don't plan on doing stuff for other guys until I get some experience under my belt anyway.
Just started the sheet rock on the Dyno cell today,and have been ordering parts for my "Dyno Mule".
Thanks for the interest though.
Keith

I have used both, bottom line once you close the hood and race the car with a open hood scoop you will have to tune the car at the track At least I have and every one else I know that has used a dyno of either type has, if you want to get the most out of your car at the track. The weather, wind,track conditions and many other things affect the cars performances

I'm with Keith, As much as I like running it down the track there are to many variables that can affect the data. A chassis dyno has tire slippage, convertor stall, and a few other issues. An engine dyno is much more user friendly when you want to start changing parts and pieces. I bought one primarily for my own quest for answers on my own junk. Along with my own stuff, a few of my friends have some interesting motors that are going on it. Nice thing now is time is no object, if I want to run 50 different tests on a particular motor I can.Dave

Thanks for all the opinions everyone.I see a lot have good points for both uses! My reasoning for thinking of a engine dyno was to send my converter back with torque readings.I've had this converter done twice now and both times are off,too tight,too loose.I had this car on a chassis dyno before and it is helpful to know the ignition in my car and fuel supply are all working accordingly.But i remember the car flashing up to 5000 until the converter locked up but then i only got 5000-6200 reading.I personally believe in the track info but like the idea of actual numbers for the engine.I've been running this combo for 2yrs now and wish i had the info before.Are Mustang chassis dynos good for tuning and getting info from?
Thanks again guys

The engine dyno shop up here is $400. for 4hrs. DSE1 runs it and has good views on it's business.

Sounds like your converter guy is missing something

engine dyno if you are looking to do alot of changes to see what really works for a combo.
its a tool to find gains !

most good dyno shops will have different carbs / spacers / etc. to try also to find more power for ya.

I think he is too! And it could be the info he was givin so i'd like him to have the correct info so he can do it right.I still have another converter that works great but this other one i want as a back up if needed.I do run a 904 trans and you never know if the converter will break the welds or not as it has happened.

Lots of shops will offer "baseline pulls" basically 2-3 pulls without changes in between to get a handle on what your ar makes power wise and where.

Typically $50-$150 depending on the shop. You dont need 4 hours unless you plan on doing tuning as well.

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A good part of my reasoning for putting the engine dyno in my shop was so other racers could afford to get an engine dyno tested.

Keith

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Hello Keith. Could you tell me how much would such a complete engine dyno set-up cost (a rough estimate is fine, thanks)?