Re: 70 A body Clutch question
[Re: ashburnmike]
#84739
07/06/08 12:02 PM
07/06/08 12:02 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Are you saying it grinds when you depress the clutch ONLY and ARE NOT trying to put the trans into gear?
If so, There are a few things:
Most likely is that the clutch fork is out of place, either improperly placed on the T/O and or not on the pivot correctly.
You may have the disc stuck to the flywheel, and you may have simple "overadjusted" the linkage to try and get it to release. What I mean is, the linkage is moving too far, and the clutch fingers are contacting the hub on the clutch.
Try with a second person or a blocking device, depress the clutch, then underneath inspect with a feeler gauge to see if the pressure plate is moving enough to release
It's possible that for some reason, the front snout of the bearing retainer broke---I've had this twice in my lifetime on two different cars
I'm assuming this is a new build and has never been run this way?
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Re: 70 A body Clutch question
[Re: ashburnmike]
#84741
07/06/08 12:57 PM
07/06/08 12:57 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Usually you can bust them free, easily.
FIRST, find this grinding problem. Again, recheck that the fork/ pivot/ TO is correct.
Next, check that you don't have the linkage cranked in so far that you are simply "over-releasing"
Get the car started and running good.
Then figure a way to get it rolling, or if it starts easily, just start it up in first gear.
Get it rolling, pop it into gear, and push in the clutch. A little power and "on/ off" the throttle should break it loose.
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Re: 70 A body Clutch question
[Re: ashburnmike]
#84746
07/07/08 12:29 AM
07/07/08 12:29 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,125 A Banana Republic near you.
JohnRR
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,125
A Banana Republic near you.
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Quote:
the Z bar, for some reason, has sliped toward the starter motor, that misalignment may have something to do w/ this problem. Starting the motor in gear didn't seem to help. any other ideas?
there is aclip that holds the Z bar in place , the tips of the clip go in holes in the Z bar and lock in the groove in the middle of the bushings , this clip should be on the fenderwell side .
also strat it in gear wit hthe clutch depress , real whells on the ground and the E brake set
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Re: 70 A body Clutch question
[Re: ashburnmike]
#84750
07/07/08 10:06 PM
07/07/08 10:06 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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You MIGHT be able to see the disc through the bottom of the bell enough to tell. The 'fat' part of the disc goes out towards the transmission
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Re: 70 A body Clutch question-REVISITED
[Re: ashburnmike]
#84755
08/19/08 02:00 PM
08/19/08 02:00 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,757 Gilbertsville, PA 19525
Pntastar69
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,757
Gilbertsville, PA 19525
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Lightly grease the input shaft. Install either the pilot shaft bearing or the roller bearing in the flywheel. Resurface the flywheel. May need a new disk too. What's the status of the trans? I'd question it if the same person did the install of the items you mentioned. ![](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/Twocents.gif)
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Re: 70 A body Clutch question-REVISITED
[Re: Pntastar69]
#84756
08/19/08 06:11 PM
08/19/08 06:11 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 455 Ashburn, Virginia
ashburnmike
OP
mopar
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OP
mopar
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 455
Ashburn, Virginia
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Thanks Mark,
the trans was rebuilt long ago by Jamie Passon and never installed until now. It has never been put under any stress.
I do have a pilot bushing in the back of the crank.
After a conversation w/ Wayne @ Brewers, he said the Borg and Beck clutch assembly I bought was, in his opinion, a sub par Chinese knockoff and he had heard of my problem before
I ordered a new McCloud assembly (clutch, pressure plate, t/o bearing) and even though the flywheel showed a mild surface rust on the outer rim near the teeth, I have it at the machine shop getting cleaned up.
Hopefully when I stick the McCloud assembly in there, all these issues will vaporize.
If they do, then I learned yet another expensive lesson w/ respect to buying inexpensive components.
I hope it works like it's supposed to
Mike
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Re: 70 A body Clutch question
[Re: ashburnmike]
#84757
08/19/08 08:25 PM
08/19/08 08:25 PM
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Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,396 Mass
dgc333
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,396
Mass
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Quote:
that's it exactly. it grinds when I depress the clutch only. It is a new re-build, except it was done over 6 years ago and has sat (in a garage)waiting for me.
I had the same issue and it was the pressure plate fingers contacting the hub of the disk. I wound up putting a block of wood under the carpet to keep me from depressing the pedal to far.
I figured it was some mis-matched parts with the bell housing and clutch fork until the clutch failed for a unrelated issue and I purchased a new clutch set.
The one I had problems with was a ZOOM OE replacement unit. I got a RAM high performance clutch to replace it and the problem is solved. They are of the same three finger design for the pressure plate but the RAM uses stiffer springs for a higher clamping force with different friction material on the disk.
The ZOOM disk has a hub that is about 1/2" higher than the friction surface on the side toward the tranny. The RAM disk the hub is only about 1/4" of an inch higher. I am able to adjust the pedal up tight and with no block of wood the fingers do not touch the disk.
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