Does anyone have details for making door opening braces for E-body convertibles for a rotissorie?

Attached are pictures from the Clark Classic resto site. They appear to be tube steel with threaded adjusters, perhaps Heim joints as well.

The appear to bolt at rear seat belt bolt, top mount area, and some crazy brackets at the dash area.

Want to have the doors in place.

Any detailed pictures of the end attachments, brackets, etc would be appreciated.

Another picture

another. If you zoom this one, the rear bracket at the top mount appears to be simple an angle with the tube welded to it.

The lower brace appears to have a threaded adjustmemnt.

You are correct in your description. I made those braces and also restored those 'Cuda bodies. Do you need more detailed pictures? Call the shop (252-758-6400) and ask for Walt Clark. Tell him Steve sent you.
BTW, the doors can be mounted with those in place, but NOT with the body suspended on a rotisserie.

Steve

www.clarkclassic.com

Steve - Yes I would like some more detailed pictures if you can post/send them.

What is the issue with having the doors on while on the rotissorie other than keeping them closed/latched? The braces seem to be plenty out of the way so as to avoid interference with the doors.

Larry, because the doors are SO heavy and throw off the balance, I lower the body down onto jack stands and then install doors. That keeps the body stable, and I can also open the doors if I want to. Also, by placing the rear stands in the position the pictures show, it prevents the back of the body from trying to sag. All of this helps with getting the body lines straight if filler work is being done. It also keeps things square if a quarter panel has to be cut out and replaced.
I've done quite a few 'Cuda convertibles and have found that they are so weak in the lower cowl, it takes very little weight or stress to alter the door to quarter/rocker fit.
In fact, I won't even final fit the doors or install front fenders until the convertible top is installed. When the new top is latched, it pulls back on the windshield frame so hard it usually pulls the upper cowl and doors back a fraction of an inch.

another

one more.



Steve

www.clarkclassic.com

Hey!! I recognize that Whirly Jig. Steve, where the temp braces are bolted to the cowl...how thick is the base that bolts to the cowl? I have a Dart conv to fix, and will need to fab a set.

JDMopar, the plate thickness should be 3/16" or 1/4". If you want an idea for some that bolt into the upper hinge area (no doors), check out the '68 Dart that I did, listed under "Partial Restorations".. We still have those supports and I can get pics of those, too.

Steve

www.clarkclassic.com

Have you tried out that rotis. yet?

Okay guys, I have pictures of the 'Cuda and Dart braces. I can post some of them this weekend, or e-mail me (in my profile) and I'll send them.

Steve

www.clarkclassic.com

Thanks Steve. I was thinking along those lines. Our Dart is a conv. ,but those type braces should work good. Now I need to get to scrounging for stuff to make em out of.

Any luck with the pictures Steve? I sent you a pm wth my email address.

Still looking for details of the end connections.

Hi guys. I haven't been on here much lately and I apologize for not responding sooner. I received several PM's and emails requesting pictures of the 'Cuda brace. If anyone who requested did not get my e-mail with attached pictures and comments, please e-mail me and I'll give it another shot.

JD, PM your e-mail address and I'll send those Dart brace pictures to you.

Steve