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Re: Let's build a race 727!!
[Re: tboomer]
#843679
11/01/10 07:00 PM
11/01/10 07:00 PM
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Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 30,465
Florida STAYcation
dOc !
The village idiot's idiot
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The village idiot's idiot
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 30,465
Florida STAYcation
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Quote:
Hi,Doc! Can't cheap out on this...That is why I got Johns catalog..Tranny brake is for consistent launches..This old car is going to the winners circle next year!! 
Hay Ted .... getting a little old ferr-a foot-brake ?  
I have never built or messed with a trans with a brake ... but from what I have learned ... you need TONS-o-Hi$ parts if you go that route ALONG with the problem of having to freshen the trans way-more often ... 
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Re: Let's build a race 727!!
[Re: dOc !]
#843681
11/01/10 07:24 PM
11/01/10 07:24 PM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 10,542
BROOK PARK, OH
WILD BILL
Senior Member of the Junior Dragster Club
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Senior Member of the Junior Dragster Club
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 10,542
BROOK PARK, OH
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My best advise is call John and get his advise on what to buy. 
That said, the only NON stock parts I used in mine was the front drum assy.
I also used Red clutches and bands.
A bolt in sprag is only needed if the outer race of the stock sprag has spun or is loose in the case.
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Re: Let's build a race 727!!
[Re: tboomer]
#843685
11/01/10 09:25 PM
11/01/10 09:25 PM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 854
Bloomingdale , OH
super451b
super stock
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super stock
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 854
Bloomingdale , OH
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Quote:
Going with a brake,Wade?
Yep ! I'm hoping that will improve my lousy reaction times I've had this year.  
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Re: Let's build a race 727!!
[Re: tboomer]
#843686
11/01/10 09:26 PM
11/01/10 09:26 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,929
NC
440Jim
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,929
NC
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Here are my general 727 recommendations:
If you are going to a trans brake, the trans must be modified for its use during the build, so now is the time to put it in.
For example, drilled oil pressure relief holes in the clutch, drilled case for the solenoid wire, relocated vent,
number of front clutch springs, etc.
I don't have any cook book list to give, but here is my 2-cents, consider all advice.
For the front band, don't use kevlar. I like the solid/ridgid band rather than the flex band. Red lining. The rear band isn't so critical, and the kevlar should last a life time if the trans works properly. Typically a trans brake likes 15 springs in the front clutch. Depending on the manual valve body selected, 12-15 springs.
A 727 can do 600-700 hp with very little changes. But some
things are nice to have for additional piece of mind or to assure a good part.
- A good valve body (with a brake if applicable)
- Check everything for wear (pump rotors, drums, ring rubbing surfaces, etc.)
- Relocate the vent with a brake (plug the front vent)
- All new bushings (just do it now, any refresh maybe not)
- All new thrust washers (cheap insurance)
- Set clutch pack clearances for the application
ex/ 0.015" per front disc (0.075" for 5 discs)
ex/ 0.025"-0.035" rear with 4 discs
- Check sprag for wear, at a minimum new rollers and springs
- The best improvement would be with a 16 roller sprag like the A&A Ultimate or Coan Super Sprag
- 3.8 or 4.2 front band servo lever (see valve body instructions)
- Rigid/solid front band (IMO releases better than flex band)
- Reinforced front band strut (servo to band)
- Babbit converter bushing in the trans pump housing
- Pre-'71 "solid" front servo with 2 springs, or shim the newer oil cushioned servo so it is solid
- Shim the rear servo so the cushion spring is almost solid
- A billet rear servo with a stronger retainer and stiffer spring is good with low band apply valve bodies.
I like the oil passage enlargement mods (ported reaction shaft support between the rings, clutch retainer holes 5/32", 1/16" oil hole to the sprag).
-And an aluminum or aftermarket steel front drum is a safety consideration.
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Re: Let's build a race 727!!
[Re: 440Jim]
#843690
11/01/10 10:38 PM
11/01/10 10:38 PM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 716
Indiana
65dragnet
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 716
Indiana
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Quote:
Here are my general 727 recommendations:
If you are going to a trans brake, the trans must be modified for its use during the build, so now is the time to put it in.
For example, drilled oil pressure relief holes in the clutch, drilled case for the solenoid wire, relocated vent,
number of front clutch springs, etc.
I don't have any cook book list to give, but here is my 2-cents, consider all advice.
For the front band, don't use kevlar. I like the solid/ridgid band rather than the flex band. Red lining. The rear band isn't so critical, and the kevlar should last a life time if the trans works properly. Typically a trans brake likes 15 springs in the front clutch. Depending on the manual valve body selected, 12-15 springs.
A 727 can do 600-700 hp with very little changes. But some
things are nice to have for additional piece of mind or to assure a good part.
- A good valve body (with a brake if applicable)
- Check everything for wear (pump rotors, drums, ring rubbing surfaces, etc.)
- Relocate the vent with a brake (plug the front vent)
- All new bushings (just do it now, any refresh maybe not)
- All new thrust washers (cheap insurance)
- Set clutch pack clearances for the application
ex/ 0.015" per front disc (0.075" for 5 discs)
ex/ 0.025"-0.035" rear with 4 discs
- Check sprag for wear, at a minimum new rollers and springs
- The best improvement would be with a 16 roller sprag like the A&A Ultimate or Coan Super Sprag
- 3.8 or 4.2 front band servo lever (see valve body instructions)
- Rigid/solid front band (IMO releases better than flex band)
- Reinforced front band strut (servo to band)
- Babbit converter bushing in the trans pump housing
- Pre-'71 "solid" front servo with 2 springs, or shim the newer oil cushioned servo so it is solid
- Shim the rear servo so the cushion spring is almost solid
- A billet rear servo with a stronger retainer and stiffer spring is good with low band apply valve bodies.
I like the oil passage enlargement mods (ported reaction shaft support between the rings, clutch retainer holes 5/32", 1/16" oil hole to the sprag).
-And an aluminum or aftermarket steel front drum is a safety consideration.
This exactly my setup also   
E. Williams 65 Coronet 500 3400lbs w/d, 446, Indy EZ'S, A&A transbrake,Comp 650 lift cam, 6.50 @ 105 mph 1/8th 10.25 @ 130mph 1/4
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Re: Let's build a race 727!!
[Re: 440Jim]
#843692
11/02/10 01:37 AM
11/02/10 01:37 AM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,890
North Alabama
Monte_Smith
master
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master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,890
North Alabama
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Quote:
Here are my general 727 recommendations:
If you are going to a trans brake, the trans must be modified for its use during the build, so now is the time to put it in.
For example, drilled oil pressure relief holes in the clutch, drilled case for the solenoid wire, relocated vent,
number of front clutch springs, etc.
I don't have any cook book list to give, but here is my 2-cents, consider all advice.
For the front band, don't use kevlar. I like the solid/ridgid band rather than the flex band. Red lining. The rear band isn't so critical, and the kevlar should last a life time if the trans works properly. Typically a trans brake likes 15 springs in the front clutch. Depending on the manual valve body selected, 12-15 springs.
A 727 can do 600-700 hp with very little changes. But some
things are nice to have for additional piece of mind or to assure a good part.
- A good valve body (with a brake if applicable)
- Check everything for wear (pump rotors, drums, ring rubbing surfaces, etc.)
- Relocate the vent with a brake (plug the front vent)
- All new bushings (just do it now, any refresh maybe not)
- All new thrust washers (cheap insurance)
- Set clutch pack clearances for the application
ex/ 0.015" per front disc (0.075" for 5 discs)
ex/ 0.025"-0.035" rear with 4 discs
- Check sprag for wear, at a minimum new rollers and springs
- The best improvement would be with a 16 roller sprag like the A&A Ultimate or Coan Super Sprag
- 3.8 or 4.2 front band servo lever (see valve body instructions)
- Rigid/solid front band (IMO releases better than flex band)
- Reinforced front band strut (servo to band)
- Babbit converter bushing in the trans pump housing
- Pre-'71 "solid" front servo with 2 springs, or shim the newer oil cushioned servo so it is solid
- Shim the rear servo so the cushion spring is almost solid
- A billet rear servo with a stronger retainer and stiffer spring is good with low band apply valve bodies.
I like the oil passage enlargement mods (ported reaction shaft support between the rings, clutch retainer holes 5/32", 1/16" oil hole to the sprag).
-And an aluminum or aftermarket steel front drum is a safety consideration.
Thats a solid trans that will do the job...but I would add that the aftermarket drum and bolt in sprag, would be a must, not an option. I would also suggest upgrading to a planet with a steel carrier. Get a valve body with a clean neutral. The MOST annoying thing about a 727 is not being able to neutral it in the traps. For the life of me, I can't understand why someone can not come up with a decent standard pattern VB.
Monte
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Re: Let's build a race 727!!
[Re: tboomer]
#843694
11/02/10 01:54 PM
11/02/10 01:54 PM
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 141
iowa
bad1970dust
"Hollywood"
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"Hollywood"
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 141
iowa
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there is some pretty good stuff to consider but you guys are forgetting some inportant part that are needed,rear roller support, hardened pump gears,four gear planetaries,and the front drum needs to be drilled where the band applies for oil relief and band life.
Last edited by bad1970dust; 11/02/10 01:55 PM.
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