Re: Thermoquad on RPM Air Gap
[Re: mopowergtx]
#832235
10/23/10 01:16 PM
10/23/10 01:16 PM
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Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 6,906 IL, Aurora
ademon
master
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master
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 6,906
IL, Aurora
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Quote:
Original poster. Street car right? Why not just run a stock 71-78 cast iron intake? Heck probably get one for free if you bug enough buddies for what they got laying around. Worst case scenario maybe twenty bucks.
Thats a 79 but I wish it was a 78 because of that stupid tin thermostat housing they started using and turned 45 degrees starting in 79. I missed that completely until after I sand blasted and painted it.
Not a bad idea, i dont think you would be giving up to much HP with a 71/72 intake, especially if modified and port matched but they are heavy !!!!
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Re: Thermoquad on RPM Air Gap
[Re: boydsdodge]
#832239
10/28/10 05:15 AM
10/28/10 05:15 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,943 Melbourne.....Oz-land
Moparmal
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,943
Melbourne.....Oz-land
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Yep, my TQ on a 318 stroker bogs all the way to 12.6 - and thats a NON reco carb, with 40 year old floats and bowl - and there's more in it. On topic - I have hogged out both an LD4B and an LD340 successfully - an air gap should prove no issue either. (PS - Don't listen to what some "others" on other sites have to say on this issue - they're yet to prove to be able to run a qtr time, let alone know what can and can't be done with a TQ and a 4B or LD........listrn to the Demon .)
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Re: Thermoquad on RPM Air Gap
[Re: Moparmal]
#832240
10/28/10 07:17 AM
10/28/10 07:17 AM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 607 NY
old340dog
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 607
NY
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Is there a provision on the LD340 and the Air Gap for the automatic choke? Or do you use a manual choke. I've noticed this on my LD340 intake and have thought about using a TQ that I have.
old340dog
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Re: Thermoquad on RPM Air Gap
[Re: HYPER8oSoNic]
#832242
10/29/10 12:16 PM
10/29/10 12:16 PM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 12,419 Kalispell Mt.
HotRodDave
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 12,419
Kalispell Mt.
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I think some of you guys have never had a t-quad base plate sitting on an RPM or RPM air-gap, there just is not enough meat there to grind away, you have to weld up the flange area then mill it back flat then you can grind clearance for the blades and have a smooth transition. That is the only way it is gonna happen unless you run a thick gasket and only grind minimal clearance for the opening blade and in that case you have a big step that will hurt performance, possibly cause tuning issues and fuel seperation. You wil still be asking for vaccume leaks because there is only about 1/32 gasket clamping area if that(may vary a few thou either way depending on particular castings). I tried everything I could imagine to do it and ended up with a mr gasket adapter siliconed to the manifold and a thin gasket, an air cleaner fit just fine with a drop base in my 68 cuda, I would have guessed an e-body would have had a little more room but I really don't know about e-bodys.
I am not causing global warming, I am just trying to hold off a impending Ice Age!
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Re: Thermoquad on RPM Air Gap
[Re: HotRodDave]
#832243
10/29/10 01:15 PM
10/29/10 01:15 PM
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Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,093 oberlin, Ohio
Rapid340
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,093
oberlin, Ohio
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I have modified LD340 intakes for thermoquad use. They can be done nicely. It really helps to be skilled with a die grinder and it takes more time than most think. I've looked at perf RPM intakes with the intent of modifying for a thermoquad and concluded it could not be done without adding an adapter (to an already tall intake) or extensive welding.
Note: No aftermarket intakes that I have measured have as low a profile as an LD340. Going from memory, they are about 5/8-3/4 inch shorter than a perf rpm or weiand action.
1971 Factory Appearing Duster 340 11.000 @ 122 mph
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Re: Thermoquad on RPM Air Gap
[Re: HYPER8oSoNic]
#832248
10/30/10 12:03 AM
10/30/10 12:03 AM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 12,419 Kalispell Mt.
HotRodDave
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 12,419
Kalispell Mt.
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Quote:
Quote:
I think some of you guys have never had a t-quad base plate sitting on an RPM or RPM air-gap, there just is not enough meat there to grind away, you have to weld up the flange area then mill it back flat then you can grind clearance for the blades and have a smooth transition. That is the only way it is gonna happen unless you run a thick gasket and only grind minimal clearance for the opening blade and in that case you have a big step that will hurt performance, possibly cause tuning issues and fuel seperation. You wil still be asking for vaccume leaks because there is only about 1/32 gasket clamping area if that(may vary a few thou either way depending on particular castings). I tried everything I could imagine to do it and ended up with a mr gasket adapter siliconed to the manifold and a thin gasket, an air cleaner fit just fine with a drop base in my 68 cuda, I would have guessed an e-body would have had a little more room but I really don't know about e-bodys.
Silicone is bad for intake to carb surfaces. Could you have tried J-B Weld on it and work an adapter? Silicone is TOO messy and disrupts the flow from the carb through the intake and to the heads! Food for thought!!
I just siliconed the spacer to the intake, then blended it in with the die grinder so no left overs hangin in the plenum.
I have done an LD4b and it has a different carb pad than an RPM, the LD4b and LD340 have basically tha same carb pad. It only took a couple minutes to rough it in. I used an 850 t-quad baseplate and a black marker to mark color everything in ther to remove, then I mounted a christmas tree carbide in a router and ran it around to remove all the black marker then hand blended the transition with a die grinder, almost looked like a cnc had done it when I was done.
I am not causing global warming, I am just trying to hold off a impending Ice Age!
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