Ok guys....i have much more experience with big blocks....could someone give me a very quick set of instructions on how to remove, inspect and re-install an oil pump on a 360? This motor will be on a stand, but i want to know if there are any tricks or special things i should know. Thanks....and i apologize for the basic nature of the question.

-Garrett

remove the pan

remove 2 bolts holding the oil pump to the main cap

remove pick up tube by unscrewing it

remove the 5 cover plate screws,remove plate

use feeler gauge to check clearance on the rotors and oil pump housing

pull rotor out and look for pitting or scuffing on them

oil pumps are cheap enuff,i would just buy a new one and install it

a lot of people use vasaline to pack the oil pump rotors and then put the cover plate back on and torque the bolts

this primes the oil pump,so it pulls oil right away on start up,vasaline thins out and is flushed with first il change

? of the oil pump gasket comes up also,if it comes with a pump then I use it...if not I just bolt the oil pump on and torque it to the main cap

there are a few other oiling mods that can be done also,but are more for HP builds

drilling it out to 1/2" and the passages from the cam to lifter galley to 9/32",along with full groove main bearings,radius all the turns in the pasages and port match the pump to cap

I have done 2 like this,had about 12hrs on the grinder to blend/port match/drill all oil passages

9/32" drill bit 12" long
1/2 drill bit 10"-12" long
carbide cutters/gringing stones/rolls

had about 40 hrs in the home bowl pocket port/gasket match on the heads,then bumped it to 1.88/1.60 vales

little over kill for a street engine,but I got good results

good luck

Didn't drill out the passage. Is this real important?

awesome, thank you for the great instructions. Two questions:

1. Once i put the pump back in or install a new one, do i use the old drill technique to prime the pump and engine? I believe the small blocks do not use the hex shaft like a big block but use a blade type priming rod....turned counterclockwise like a bb.

2. If I wanted to add a windage tray (which bolts to the main caps) can I do that without screwing up the main bearings? Would i remove and replace one bolt (replaced with a stud) at a time? Does a windage tray make a big difference (mileage more-so than performance) on a mild 360?

These are just my opinions. But opinions are like A$$H....

1. Drilling the oil passages out to 1/2 inch and the ones going down from the lifter gallery to the main bearings is only needed on an engine that will see 6000 + RPM all the time. And the engine must be all apart so you can get to all the ports/passages to clean all that metal out. Not a big binifet for a street engine.

2. Windage trays are also only needed on a engine that buzzes up in higher RPMs all the time. Worthless at 3500 RPM. And some experts say a windage tray causes aero "DRAG" on a long stroke crank. If you use one on the 360, you should put the thick hardened washers under the main bearing bolts to lower the tray away from the crank.

3. Stock engine in a street car = stock pressure and stock volumn oil pump. A high volume pump will not do any better and will draw more HP just to spin.

4. One recommendation, use thread sealer on the pickup tube to pump connection. You do not want it sucking any air at that connection.

Just pull the pan, pop the old pump off, pop the new one on, place pan back on, fill, prime, drive.

no big deal that you didnt,the blending will help it out a little

nice job and good thinking to tape it off on the machine surface



over kill on a street engine and windage tray not needed

just pointing out that there are things that can be done to them.and that I have done 2 of them on street engines,no problems so far with either

you have to remove the stock oil pump shaft to use the hex primer tool

try not to scuff up the shaft bushing in the block,if it come out with the shaft...repace the bushing..dont want it spinning in the block

just R&R it with a new pump and dont work on whats not broke

No apology needed, made perfect sense to me . If it was in the car I'd say R&R the pump/button it up & go but w it out/on a stand lots of oiling mods you can do exp if you have the bare block upside down on a stand & have the time to get into it. There's enough material to open the pump inlet to 1/2 NPT & use a reworked 1/2 NPT hemi pickup and inside the pump on the output side you want 1/2" ID on all the angled passages thru the main cap to the horizontle gallery & yes opening up/deburring the mating passages of the cap/pump in your pic so they blend into each other and drilling the hor gallery to crank passages is worthwhile. I would drill the 1 3 5 vertical crank to cam passages for a setscrew w a 1/16" hole drilled in it to restrict oil to the (3) cam bearings as they rec way too much oil in stock form and that is a major oil leak. yes all this is (slightly) overkill on a street eng but gives you experience w it & experimentation is what hotrodding is all about & more than anything I'd weld in some baffles around the perimeter of the sump and later you may build an eng for dragging or cornering & you'll benefit from these mods .