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Finally called Wes,@ Mancini Racing and received a Centerforce dual friction setup today.

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You won't be dissappointed. Just remember to remove the "over center" spring under the dash and to install a clutch "return" spring from the fork to the bellhousing and you'll be good to go.

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You won't be dissappointed. Just remember to remove the "over center" spring under the dash and to install a clutch "return" spring from the fork to the bellhousing and you'll be good to go.

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You won't be dissappointed. Just remember to remove the "over center" spring under the dash and to install a clutch "return" spring from the fork to the bellhousing and you'll be good to go.

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Why are you supposed to remove the over center spring?

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Because..
Diaphragm spring clutches maintain higher clamp load than lever style clutches throughout the service life of the clutch. As disc friction material wears, clamp load increases during the first half of clutch life before decreasing gradually to its original level. Diaphragm spring clutches require less pedal effort the further the pedal is actuated, reducing stress on release system components.
When replacing a coil spring clutch with a diaphragm spring, always remove over-center or
release-assist springs. Designed to reduce the higher pedal effort associated with coil spring
clutches, over-center springs may overcompensate when a diaphragm spring clutch is installed. This
can result in a very soft pedal and, in some cases, a pedal will go to the floor and stay there.

Next question..

Just my $0.02...

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Why are you supposed to remove the over center spring?

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The CFDF is a "diaphram" pressure plate. The pedal pressure is very light, the "over center' spring will hold the clutch pedal from coming back up all the way.

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This issue has been commented on many times in previous posts regarding clutches. My experience has been that early diaphragm clutches especially factory GM stuff in the '60's were notorious for hanging up usually at high rpm. This was at least partly due to an overcenter condition. Not hard to understand when you consider that a diaphragm spring is basically a big belleville washer. Since I happen to like a light pedal effort and since some sort of spring is needed anyway in order to prevent the throwout bearing from riding on the clutch fingers I prefer to keep the overcenter spring in place and use an adjustable pedal stop on the clutch pedal. If you do this you can have best of both worlds; ie. light pedal effort and no hanging up of the clutch.

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Agreed..
Early diaphragm clutches were not reliable and could not take the horsepower..
However...
Since I am ole school I still prefer the B&B 3 finger pressure plate..

Just my $0.02...

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This issue has been commented on many times in previous posts regarding clutches. My experience has been that early diaphragm clutches especially factory GM stuff in the '60's were notorious for hanging up usually at high rpm. This was at least partly due to an overcenter condition. Not hard to understand when you consider that a diaphragm spring is basically a big belleville washer. Since I happen to like a light pedal effort and since some sort of spring is needed anyway in order to prevent the throwout bearing from riding on the clutch fingers I prefer to keep the overcenter spring in place and use an adjustable pedal stop on the clutch pedal. If you do this you can have best of both worlds; ie. light pedal effort and no hanging up of the clutch.

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This issue has indeed been discussed many times in the past, and as I have stated many times in the past, based on real life experience and using a CFDF for over 8 years, The clutch pedal DOES NOT stick to the floor at high rpm shifts. Unless you concider 6500 -6800rpm shifts low rpm. The CFDF works much better with the "over center" spring removed. The CFDF is NOT old school technology. Over the past 42 years of driving and racing my car, the Centerforce has without exception, been the best set up I've tried. If you doubt any of what I say, you should come to the track on a day that I am racing. It'll make a believer out of you.

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I'm a big fan of the Hay's Street & Strip. The last S&S pressure plate I had for over 20 years and it was still working great when I sold the car. Went through 3 discs in that time and the Hay's disc lasted the longest and worked the best.

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I bought a Hays B&B street & strip pressure plate and disc last year. The pressure plate lasted all of 25 miles before a spring broke during normal (not hammering on it) driving.
Summit replaced the entire unit. I put it in the car and never could get the clutch to adjust properly. So, I took the four speed out and put the 727 back in.
There are three words on the pressure plate that should scare you; "Hecho en Mexico."