If I can ever get the interior painted, I will rewire the car. Can't see paying a wad for the factory bulkhead connecting wire block.

Anybody used something else to disconnect the wires at the bulkhead?

Thanks, Kevin

I reused my old bulkhead (both halves) & soldered on new brass male/female terminals inside that are available from NAPA 725147/725145 and the 2 main feed large wires I drilled the bulkhead out and ran them straight thru (took a cue from Nacho's parallel bypass). EDIT if yours is trashed you could get one from a JY, clean it up, maybe even recolor it black if needed & do the above. Only need an eyeglass mini screwdriver to get the old terminals out. The male terminals you slightly depress one side leg slightly then it pulls out the back side w the wire and the female ones there's a slot on one side on the bulkhead itself and stick the screwdriver in there and slightly depress the tab and then it too easily comes out the back w an easy pull on the wire. The trick is to depress the tab just the right amt to where the wire pulls out the back side EASY. Never no need to force anything. On the new female terminals pull the locking tab on the side "out" a bit just past the surface so when you push it in it the bulkhead it will "snap" in place. this is the tab that you are depressing to get the old ones out. On the male terminal w it installed you cant tell which side is the open leg so touch each one w your screwdriver and see which ones "gives" and that's the side to slightly depress

Thanks,Robert!

Your help is always appreciated!

I used a surplus one of these when rewiring my `58 Continental.

Do you have a part # for what you used? Went to the web site and had no luck.

I wouldn't mind trying something like that....

I got it a the military surplus store. That was 42 years ago so the details are a bit fuzzy.

I used to work for Essex wire building wiring harnesses in 1978 and we used a 3/32" allen wrench beveled on the end like a screwdriver to push-in the lug so it could easily slide out. I have several 67 Dart wiring harnesses and bulkheads laying around if you need one. BTW, the bulkhead is the same from 67-72.

I have thought about this for a while.

I just stumbled across this.
http://www.watsons-streetworks.com/billet_firewall_trim.html

But in the past I wanted to use a combination of these.
http://www.route66supply.com/store/page19.html

1 of the 100 amp connectors for power into the car and a 12 circuit or so for power feeds in and out.

I rewired my 63 Dart with a street rod wiring kit from EZ Wire. I popped out the pins on both halves of the bulkhead connector and ran the wires through the connector and it looks like it is a functional connector. It of course has the fully intact wire running through it. No more connector related electrical problems.

Of course I do not have a valuable car either but I also do not have anymore electrical issues.

Mike

My :
If you rewire your car any way and stock looking is not mandatory...

... I would consider to move the "connector" into the car under the dashboard and close the connector's hole (there are delete plates available or just make one yourself). It takes a grommet (and a hose) to guide the wires into the car.

Inside the car you can take whatever you want (to connect wires) since it's not necessary to make it weatherproof. You could take simple screw-type connectors which make everything much, MUCH easier . No soldering, no crimping, no costly parts, no thin wires, no weak terminals that heat up. You can place the (modern!) fuses where you can check them without removing the drivers seat even if you're older than 25 (you could place them in the ashtray as an idea).

Another hint: If you "paint" your car (anywhere) take care that there are enough places where electrical grounding can happen . If you paint parts that were bare metal before, you may lock grounding connections!