Quote:

---

while you got it out put a little weld and shorten the curve, and regrease

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

while you got it out put a little weld and shorten the curve, and regrease

---

Wouldn't welding the advance plate lower the amount of overall timing the dist. puts in? I can understand the desire for this from a performance standpoint, but from an economical daily driver standpoint, wouldn't this be a bad thing?

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

while you got it out put a little weld and shorten the curve, and regrease

---

Wouldn't welding the advance plate lower the amount of overall timing the dist. puts in? I can understand the desire for this from a performance standpoint, but from an economical daily driver standpoint, wouldn't this be a bad thing?

---

Yes, that would limit the advance from the dist, allowing more initial timing. From what I understand, running more initial at idle usually gives a better idle and better throttle response. My 318 runs pretty well at 17* initial.

Then you want your total advance as soon as you can to get the best performance at cruising RPMs.

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

while you got it out put a little weld and shorten the curve, and regrease

---

Wouldn't welding the advance plate lower the amount of overall timing the dist. puts in? I can understand the desire for this from a performance standpoint, but from an economical daily driver standpoint, wouldn't this be a bad thing?

---

once you run any type of performance cam or want performance. this is trick i use on more radical cars/cubes/cams 20 initail advance and shorten the dizzt plate to 16 degrees 36 total all in by 2500. mild stuff 12-16 base timing and limit plate to 20 degrees advance all in by 3k, all stock dizzys have way to much in the plate i shorten all types msd,mopar,440 sourceect..
Yes, that would limit the advance from the dist, allowing more initial timing. From what I understand, running more initial at idle usually gives a better idle and better throttle response. My 318 runs pretty well at 17* initial.

Then you want your total advance as soon as you can to get the best performance at cruising RPMs.

---

Quote:

---

I like to leave the slots alone for better starting.
Big confusion is true initial (before it starts) and in gear idle advance.
I then change the advance springs to get the in gear idle I want at the total I want (38?) sometimes just replace the heavy spring with the big eye. sometimes the other or both.
You may want 12 initial with 18 in gear idle advance and 38 total.
or 12 initial 22 in gear idle and 38 total
or 12 initial and 30 in gear idle and 38 total.

My question why would you shorten the slots to 16 degree of advance and set the initial at 22 and idle advance at 22 with total 38 and put up with all that hard starting??

---

heres were it gets complicated bone stock mopar cam in a 426 hemi are based timed like 6 degrees btdc, and mechanical advance was designed to put 30 degrees of advance on the plate thats 36 total.now lets rebuild it pull out stock solid cam 242 @ 50 duration and put in solid roller cam 260 @ 50 duration with alot more lift also. now for it to launch hard off a light base timing needs to 20 degrees or it will be a dud, you cant run 20 base and a 30 advance system it will be 50 total, so with radical performance cams 20 base and dizzy plate must be shorten to 16 total for 36.and with 509-590 mopar cams not so radical you do the opposite its 16 base and 20 on plate for street car. and you dont want to go over 36 total this works great with stock stroker cranks, when you build stroker motors then want less spark led time for gained piston speed and make more power at 32-34 degrees total timming. like said ive shorten the dizzy on every car i own for max power with no hard starting problems

Quote:

---

So not to get too far off topic here, but what would be a reason you'd want a lower initial timing? Like I said, my 440 seems to like around 15* initial. Quick cranking, no problem on hot restarts, plenty quick on throttle response. But with 15* initial and this 36* advance, that puts me at 41* total. I'm not sure what RPM that is at yet, but I'll find out. Is 41* too drastic? What happens when you start running higher advances?

---

Quote:

---

With too much total you'll get pinging, which can lead to the issues listed above.

At part throttle cruise, the vacuum advance will add advance so you're in the 50* range. This is normal and desired for better fuel mileage.

Under WOT the vac advance drops out so you only have initial + mechanical for ~36* total.

---

Quote:

---

So not to get too far off topic here, but what would be a reason you'd want a lower initial timing? Like I said, my 440 seems to like around 15* initial. Quick cranking, no problem on hot restarts, plenty quick on throttle response. But with 15* initial and this 36* advance, that puts me at 41* total. I'm not sure what RPM that is at yet, but I'll find out. Is 41* too drastic? What happens when you start running higher advances?

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

So not to get too far off topic here, but what would be a reason you'd want a lower initial timing? Like I said, my 440 seems to like around 15* initial. Quick cranking, no problem on hot restarts, plenty quick on throttle response. But with 15* initial and this 36* advance, that puts me at 41* total. I'm not sure what RPM that is at yet, but I'll find out. Is 41* too drastic? What happens when you start running higher advances?

---

Pat does it ping in it's current configuration shown above when you step down on it hard under a heavy load?

---

Quote:

---

I have a 254/262 solid roller in a 511 Hemi. I use @23* initial and limit total to @33*. Cranks like it does not have plugs in it.

My slots be real short.

---