ok 1970 superbird ....
I put all new breaks in it as in
new lines
new valves all 3 ....
new rear wheel cyc
new front calipers
new rubber lines ...

only thing not new was the booster and rotors ...

ok the back bleeds out ok ..

for the last 2 months i have been trying to get the fronts to bleed out ...

the peddle only goes down about 1in
i bottle bleed the front and i get only a trickle out of the calipers .. same both sides ...

when the peddle is pumped it doesnt have any fluid pressure ..

I have gone threw all the lines in front even the dam "Texas" valve and it works like the book says,,

Now the book all so states that if you peddle bleed you dont need to hold the valve open ...

all thow the book tell you to PUSH IN the valve.. but you need to pull on it to open it ...

i have tryed many ways and no front breaks ,,,

HELP !!!!!!!!

double ck the little tiny hole in the large reservoir of your master cyl isnt plugged with rust or debris... i had the exact same problem and found it was rusted closed [new master cyl too] so take a small tiny stiff wire and poke it good luck dan

thats not it ...

I put the 2nd new master in it to day ... bench bleed great ,,,

ok...then the freeplay at the pushrod is probably wrong and not allowing the master cyl to come fully back ... try bleeding it with the master loose a couple threads on each nut... dan

Thanks
tryed that to ...


when pulled off the factory master the end of the rod was a few threads out ... and i tryed the new master's and things didnt work...

So now i read up on that adjustment so i try with the end of the rod all the way in .. and no change

after two months of this ... i think i have tryed anything and ever thing

maybe a silly question, but I've had the proportioning valve crud up on me and cause problems. Couldn't hurt to have a look...

If the calipers are mounted on the wrong side the bleeders will be at the bottom and not at the top where they should be.

wagon @ pent440

yes i made sure the p-valve was clean and centered

and the bleeders are on top ...

I think its the little disk valve ( see pic )
I dont know alot about it...or how it works ..does it hold presser back in the front ? the book tells me it opens at 135psi.. it opens when the peddle is pushed i can see it working..

Mind you thes valves and lines are all new from inline ... and i know new doesnt always = working ....

grab that little pin w a pair of vice grips & pull on it/hold it so it stays "out", then bleed

ok sorry for the big pic ,,,

Rob we have done that as well and nothing ...


next two pic is what the book tells me ... Now i know you cant push it in ... but if you did hold it in it would not pass fluid

last pic

As a diagnostic at least, I'd take that valve out of the system. Put in simple straight connector or a "T" as needed and try again.

Then "bench bleed" again in car to verify function of the master and "bottle bleed" meaning pump the pedal with a hose connected to a bleader in a bottle.

If its the valve you will know right away. And if you want to start a long discussion ask about the need for the valve itself and its benefits. Bottom line, it may work great without the valve.

thanks
Ahy..

I was going to do just that .. its the only to prove the part bad ...

as far as i know it just a kinda safety valve to improve breaking ...

David

I'v had a prob valve get pushed all the way to one side with the same results

Hello! I just had a similar problem with my Challenger. Dumb question.....are you sure all the lines are hooked up correctly at the proportioning and hold-off valves? I had one hooked up incorrectly to the hold-off valve.....no front brake fluid flow! I looked at it like a dozen times until I figured out it was in the wrong position. When I swapped the line, they bled immediately! I even had a "hard" pedal, just NO flow. You might also start bleeding at the master and follow each line down the flow to see where and if you have a restriction. BTW, I still have my old valves if you are thinking yours are bad. I'll give them to you if you want to try them. Take care, Jeff

didnt make to the pick up the brass T today ..
today i did talk to the guy at a shop that rebuilds boosters and master cyc.. he told me i need to make sure that the piston in the master cyc is returning all the way .. the adjustable end on the rod that comes out of the booster. I had to remove it so there was room for cyc to fully return.. now i have a better peddle.. but still the no fluid threw the fronts.. I called in-line tube and they had idea..

Tomorrow im going to swap in a valve set from a 71 E-Body and see ..

HERE IS A PIC OF MY SETUP

Your problem is the Inline Tube valves-they are bad. There has been a rash of them and everyone is having problems with them! I am speaking from experience. Get some from Fine Lines and your problem will be solved.

well i did call fine lines first they had all the lines and the guy on the phone told me that they did have all the valves i needed .. i even asked him to go look to be sure and he came back on the line told me that they did so i payed the man..
(i was going to have the car at MATS if they did)..

i even asked him about the falling out with inline .. as fine lines used to supply inline with valves...

so a week later still no box on my door . so i called fine and got Mike and he told me that they didnt have the valves and his guy should not had said that ..he said he go see what he could do and will call me back ..

So in a pinch i called in line and they had every thing ... I called and Mike back on the phone the next day and killed my order..

Trust me Fine was my first stop ... if i was not trying to make a dead line i would have wated...

and tomorrow if i put in the OE parts in and it works im going to have a $^#@%&

Just toss out the metering (hold-off valve). Only function was to prevent early front lockup on GLARE ICE. (Unless you really use your classic Mope in this kind of weather - kudos to you if you do!)

Rick