I just scaled the Cuda and with the new 540 Indy Alum block, and strange alum disc brakes, I dropped about 200 #'s.

LF = 770 RF = 772 total ft = 1542 (56%)

LR = 651 RR = 536 total rear = 1187 (44%)

Total weight is 2,737 #'s including 210# driver, so car weighs 2,527#'s

The ladder bars are set up with no preload, so i was tempted to preload the RR and transfer some weight, but the car seems to launch straight now, so i think I will leave it???

Any ideas on how to improve this?

My 4 gallon fuel cell is at the right front corner and the battery is at the right rear corner. I cant think of anything to transfer weight to the RR ?

Cheers,

Arnie

Hey Arnie..

Are you sure those numbers aren't reversed with an aluminum block..

Just checking.. Mine are similar, but with 52% rear w/ aluminum block.. And B1 heads..


BTW, I think neutral preload is good if you can do it..

Chris..

0 pre load is good if you can but I'm suprized that
you can run 0 with the torque you should be putting
out.... if it works ... leave it along

[I cant think of anything to transfer weight to the RR ?

Cheers,

Arnie

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don't mean to jack this post!
Arnie
I'm just in the process of setting up a chassis seminar with a good bud of mine..... "Dave Morgan" in Yorkton/Regina and Skt'n. You will litterly be blown away from the info on his workshop. It'll be set for a weekend each in Oct.but you can contact him now to get registered and even grab his dvd for home use now!!!
Reach him @1-567-242-9779 or "staytuned@aol.com

Dave

Better yet, come over to Minot and bring the cuda on the 27th weekend ,Dave is our track manager and does a hellava job!

You could adjust a little in the front with the torsion bars if you still have them, doesn't take much.

Chris, the 4 gal cell is in the front, and my notchback rear glass is lighter than a fastback??

Mr P Body, It is spinning some so maybe it will go right when it dead hooks?

GgoDemon, Yes i would like to go to Daves seminar in Regina. Do you have a date?

I did level the T bars to be the same frt height w/ me in the drivers seat. Are you saying to raise the LF a bit more to transfer to the RR ?
Cheers,

Arnie

I did level the T bars to be the same frt height w/ me in the drivers seat. Are you saying to raise the LF a bit more to transfer to the RR ?
Cheers,

Arnie

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If you crank up the left T bar it will move weight to
the right rear... but I would leave it for now till
you see if it leave straight... if it goes to the right
it will take very little on the left T bar to add
the weight to the right rear

GgoDemon, Yes i would like to go to Daves seminar in Regina. Do you have a date?

Arnie
Morgans seminar will be held in Regina at Tim and Dan Vogt's shop Oct.9-10 ///// pre-register with Dave Morgan directly

Dave

Most standard style door cars will always be light on the right rear. The reason? The driver,hard to offset his wieght. I intentionally mounted both of my batterys on the right rear to help. You could offset mount the fuel cell as well. Put the fuel pump in right corner,MSD on right side also,it all adds up. Adding preload can be done with either torsion bar adjustment or ladder bar adjustment,it doesn't matter. Your front weights will be off if the rears are equal. This could cause a pull during hard braking. You may be able to comprimise between front and rear weights. Remember, adding preload to one corner will change the diagonal corner as well.
Doug