Building a 70 Cuda with a hemi and was wondering who's brake kit is the one to buy? I want a stock looking manual brake master cylinder and stock proportioning valve. From there, I just want a nice front and rear kit that stops well, and goes together easily.
Having all the little parts in the box is a plus and detailed instructions helps too. Let me know what works and what to avoid?
Thanks

Hard to beat the factory 11.75 system for a daily driver type of car. As long as you have 15 inch wheels the 11.75 rotors will work. Nice thing about using factory parts is that the local NAPA will have everything you need for repairs. If you put an aftermarket kit on there then you need to call up and order parts.

It's what I use and I have yet to have any issues.

There's nothing wrong with the factory stuff, but I want to go disc's both front and rear. I want to drop weight from the car as much as possible. The Hemi is aluminum and the Passon 4 speed is too.
Thanks

There's a place to drop weight, but not in the rotors, imo. At least not on a street car.

I agree with you completely. I have drums on all 4 corners right now and want to replace them with binders.

I generally use the factory pin type calipers, 70-74 E body/70-2 B body, as I prefer those for there fluid displacement to match them to the Stainless Steel Brake Corp (SSBC) Dana/8 3/4" rear disc package on my cars, as well as customers cars,...I'd recommend a 1 " bore master cylinder (power or manual) the SSBC rears will allow you to retain the factory parking brake cables without mods,...you can ditch the proportioning valve,...just Tee off the front lines, the rear line can come directly off the master,....when installing the rear kit, it is supplied with a spacer to replace the rear drum brake backing plate, so you won't have problems with the rear axle carrier, unlike some other kits on the market,...just be sure to use the shims (washers supplied) to center the loaded caliper over the rotor, so that the pads are displaced equally,...something the instructions don't mention at all, usually a no brainer, but some people goof this area, and burn up rotor or pads because the caliper is not centered on the rotor,...up front run either the A body, or F/J or 73 later B body spindle so that you can utilize the later 1 pc unicast factory rotors,...I generally use the earlier pin style caliper bracket, as it bolts on to the later spindles,...unless you prefer floaters (Calipers),...I recommend Stainless steel brake lines (tubing) seeing your doing the system over, do it once, do it right, never touch it again

Mike