Hey guys I am new to any board and have been into MOPAR for a few years. Last year I bought a challenger and have been restoring it since then its just about done as we speak hopefully its getting painted. I have questions regarding the motor I currently have at the machine shop, I have a 440 block (it is a 78 casting year) and a set of stealth heads and a forged crank. I need to know can I get 500-600 fpt and 450-500 hp without stroking my motor or would it simply be better for performance and more cost effective to get a 400 block put my 440 crank and rods or go from there I want something that will last and I dont wanna break the bank if I get close to those numbers I will be happy as kissin cousins guys any help would be greatly appreciated javascript:void(0)

youll be fine.

your goal is easily doable, shoot for 10.00 to 10.50 to 1 comp. ratio, cam should be in the 230 @ .050 to 250 @ .050, 108 or 110 lobe seperation angle ( I like the comp Cams XE275HL with power brakes or the XE 285HL grind with out power brakes. I have a 446 C.I. 440 block that has a set of ported "906" iron heads with bigger valves, same size valves as the stock Eddy RPM or Stealth heads have stock,TRW forged 6 pak pistons that make a true 9.46 to 1 comp. ratio That motor made 512 HP at 5500 RPM and 535 FT at 4000 RPM with a Edelbrock Performer RPM intake and a box stock Holley 950 HP on CA pump gas, it is for sell. I build motors for a living and race them to boot. That motor went 11:30 ET in my 3400 lb Duster spinning the tires at Woodburn several years ago, I made two runs on it and took it out. I have five motors and that is the littlest one

Wow I am glad you went the way I needed most people were giving me drag engine plans. You answered my prayers do I need to buy aftermarket rods or just pistons. And will the stock crank work.

If money is a concern, when is it not , the stock rods will work fine at that power level. Have them magnaflux and and checked for length, shoot for plus or minus .005 or closer on length and have new ARP replacement rod bolts installed and redo the big end. Same thing on the cranks,magnaflux, turned and reharden. BTW is your crankshaft forged steel or cast iron? If cast iron I would look around for a early forged steel one or go with a new stroker kit 512 pump gas motors really rock Good luck Keep us informed, all knowlegde shared is very much appreciated on here

My crank is forged but I was trying to avoid stroking the motor I am hoping what I wanna do is acheivable

I think an acheivable goal with the heads you have could be 500 hp and 500 tq. just need to get the cam and the comp right.

Don

There are a couple very good books out on the subject, a recent one, buy it. It will help.

Like MrCab or 440Jim said new rods or ARP or some other good rod bolts.
I had a 451(.060 over 440) TRW pistons stock rods and bolts,ported & polished 915 heads Comp Cams 286-750 roller. After about the 3rd pass shifting @ 6500 ,I had 1 good head and a few roller lifters left from a rod bolt breaking this was a few years back but I still remember it.

440 is fine.Rod upgrade good idea.Light pistons=good idea.
Your combo will work fine with stock heads.
Spend any extra money porting the heads.It is the best way to achieve your goals without spending a lot more $$$.

I'm running a "440 inside a 383 block" it's got a 440 stroke, and the 383 is punched. 060 over, so the final displacement is 438" I'm also running a 440 length rod!

the 440 stroke and a 440 rod in the low deck gives a really short piston, and a very light rotating assembly. Fast revs! and lots of torque!

10.5:1 compression, OOTB eddy heads, and a comp XE275HL cam. RPM intake and a 750 holley HP double pumper, mechanical secondaries, and the motor made 535 tq and 505 hp on the engine dyno.

thats a great book, although bias toward building a 505 using EZ heads, certainly got me thinking my -1s are to big for my 13.5:1 448

very easily to do with stock stroke 440. I would also get some aftermarket H-beam rods youl be money ahead for a couple reasons. One you wont be using those old rods that will defently need to be checked(note the new rods you'll also want the checked by your machinist)
The big reason at least for me was when I put together my 448 I was able to find a stock stroke piston from Ross that used the lighter .990 wrist pin.
That allowed some weight to come of the crank when it was rebalanced.
Does not seem like alot but all the piston weight and small end weight of the rod is what kills mopar big blocks.
Which is why the strokers are so cool

Your in the same boat as i was. I went ahead and did a budget build (kinda) with my 440. I stayed with stock stroke and went with .030 over trw 6pack pistons 2355's with a zero deck. My compression should be mid-10's. Had the rods checked and upgraded rod and main bolts of course. Its nothing exotic and i cant complain bout the power i've made with this motor. It has been thru several cams intakes, carbs, etc. I finally ended up with a solid cam (hughes), victor Int and Indy Ez's heads (stock port), 850 demon carb, a 3800 stall with 3.91 gears. All stock suspension. My car is a 74 cuda and i have ran 11.40's with it. I have no idea what the power / TQ is but it's enough to push my 3700 lb car to 11's. Although if i could rewind time i would have built it different and prob had more power and saved $$. I just wanted to let you know that you can make decent power with a basic 440. I know there is more in mine also. Its all bout a good combination of cam,heads,carb,gears,stall. IMHO