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Below I have taken the original descriptions and questions from the various threads and put them here in a central location.
Here are the links to the original posts:
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=87135
http://www.dragstuff.com/forum/viewt...hp?f=12&t=2534

Prices:
20/40 amp relay center: 100.00

It has 5 40 and 5 20 amp relays. Each circuit individually fused. LED indicators on the inputs and outputs. Apply 12V on the input turns on the relay. Besides the 10 input and 10 output connections it only requires a small ground and the battery feed. It’s 4.8 by 9 inches.

How can you get away with such a small ground?

Because it is only for the LED’s and the relay coils. It carries none of the current from the devices being controlled by the relay. Total current through the ground with all the relays on (@12V) is 1.41 amps.

How well will this work on a 16v system with no alternator?

16V @ 40 amps is the limit for the 40 amp relays. You can go higher voltage like 18 Volts but then the current can only be 35 amps. The 20 amp relays are limited to 20 amps @ 14V, 17.2 amps @16V, or 14.4 amps @ 18V.

1 oz copper or more? Assuming you doubled up the battery buss on the flip side based on all the vias. Double traces on the switched side of the relay too?

3 oz. Copper actually and yes the power traces into and out of the relays are on both sides of the board. There is only a single trace for the switched side of the relay, but it is more than generously sized.

Do you have any drag cars running these? Are they pretty durable?

Yes I have several drag cars running these. They are durable, but actually street/strip cars are more of a reliability test since they usually have more devices on at one time and for longer periods of time. So far I haven’t had any complaints from either type of user.
Are those relays able to come out and be replaced if needed? Or are they soldered to the board?
Yes the relays are in a socket. I have actually been thinking about doing away with the sockets on the next version because I feel they only add cost and another potential failure point. I worked for about 11 years with an ambulance system had a similar (but much larger) relay board and more often than not it was the sockets loosening up and failing not actual relay failures, especially when used close to their maximum ratings.

Dave, any chance of doing your relay board in the epoxy also? Thanks…..

At this time, no, the cost is just too prohibitive at this point.

Quick question. Are the relays no, nc, or a combination? I see the potential to lose 10) yards of the spaghetti I have now...

The relays are NO.

Dave there is one thing I noticed that I do have a concern about on the relay board. Are those inputs a connector or little screws that hold a bare wire? Any issues with those loosening up due to vibration?

The inputs are a screw connector that you insert a wire into. Loosening isn't really a problem, I have a similar connector on the relay board in my car and I just checked them after 5 or so years and none were loose enough to pull out the wire. Yeah, I was able to get a half turn or so on a couple but that was it. Having said that though, checking them once or twice a year wouldn't be a bad idea.

For the 10 relay board, am I reading that correctly that it has LEDS on there that tell you if it is functioning correctly?

Yes it has leds on the inputs (tells you if your switch is working) and outputs (lets you know the fuse and relay are working).

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Here is an install picture...I thought it looked pretty clean.

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parts left out cost nothing and cause no service problems. i never use a relay unless it's necessary. on another note it looks like some of that has been soldered and heat shrunk. i did that one time...it cost me a run at defending a championship and a $1000 worth of bent shift forks due to an intermittent electrical problem. solder wicks up the wire and causes a potential fracture point amhik. afaik all the wiring on aircraft is crimped. i'll never solder connectons like that again.

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not on my race car. it's just one more item that can go bad. I am in the minority with wiring. A good quality hi amp rated switch, correct wire size and a fuse, That's how I do it. A relay only on my pump because it's already in the rear.

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You don't have time to chase down electrical gremlins at the track... Wire,switch,fuse and load..that's it for me.

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I like the KISS priciple on all my wiring

I made a change after many years of contending with that stupid line lock coiled wire that cost 30.00 ? .
No more tangles ,no more aggravation when using removeable wheel.
One 75 amp headlight switch 6.00
one plastic project box 3.00 total cost 9.00
I mounted switch in the box and mounted the box on the side of my tunnel. Lift switch on push it's off

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I like that idea for the line lock...